title: Use of a hypobaric chamber for pre-acclimatization before climbing Mount Everest.
abstract: Climbing Mount Everest needs an acclimatization period of 3 to 4 weeks between 3000 and 6000 m. In order to reduce this period of time spent in dangerous conditions, an experience of pre-acclimatization was performed with 5 elite alpinists (4 male, 1 female), aged 30 +/- 4 yrs (mean +/- SD), before their attempt to climb Mount Everest. Subjects first remained one week on Mont-Blanc (between 4350 and 4807 m), then spent a total of 38 hours in a hypobaric chamber (in 4 consecutive days) from 5000 to 8500 m standard altitude. Then, they flew to Kathmandu and reached 7800 m five days only after leaving the base camp. The pre-acclimatization period showed a 12% increase in hemoglobin concentration, and no change in ventilatory response to hypoxia. Arterial oxygen saturation at submaximal exercise in hypoxia (FIO2 = 0.115) increased from 75 +/- 4 to 82 +/- 3%, probably because of an efficient ventilatory acclimatization. On Mount Everest, the speed of ascent was very high (5600 m of altitude gain in 6 days), knowing that in conventional expeditions, 12 to 32 days are generally necessary to reach, safe, the same altitude. In conclusion, pre-acclimatization seems to have triggered efficient mechanisms which allowed climbers to save 1 to 3 weeks of time in mountain conditions.
authors: Association pour la Recherche en Physiologie de l'Environnement, U. F. R. Médecine, Bobigny, France.
authors: J P
authors: JP
authors: Richalet
authors: J
authors: J
authors: Bittel
authors: J P
authors: JP
authors: Herry
authors: G
authors: G
authors: Savourey
authors: J L
authors: JL
authors: Le Trong
authors: J F
authors: JF
authors: Auvert
authors: C
authors: C
authors: Janin
mesh_terms: D000064:Acclimatization / Q000502:physiology*; D000328:Adult; D000531:Altitude; D001273:Atmosphere Exposure Chambers; D005260:Female; D005602:France; D006801:Humans; D000860:Hypoxia / Q000503:physiopathology / Q000517:prevention & control; D008297:Male; D009051:Mountaineering / Q000502:physiology*; D009390:Nepal; D010101:Oxygen Consumption / Q000502:physiology; D010807:Physical Endurance / Q000502:physiology