Dermo-epidermal stimulation elicited by a beta-lipohydroxyacid: a comparison with salicylic acid and all-trans-retinoic acid.
Although ageing has been thought to be irreversible, studies made during the last decade have shown that a few topical compounds may limit or improve the age-related skin damages. The efficacy of tretinoin (all-trans-retinoic acid) in treating photoageing is well established. Identifying other compounds with similar effect and improved tolerance would be greatly valued. In this double-blind study, a new beta-lipohydroxyacid compound was evaluated. To address a comparison between products, 6 volunteers completed a 4-week study using twice daily 0.025% tretinoin, 5% salicylic acid, 1.5% beta-lipohydroxyacid or vehicle. Immunohistochemistry and computerized image analysis were performed on skin sections from biopsies taken after treatment. We searched for changes in epidermal renewal (Ki-67 labeling), modifications in cytokeratin (56-65 kD) and filaggrin patterns, and in tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-alpha), Ulex europaeus and factor XIIIa expressively. The vehicle- and salicylic-acid-treated areas had an aspect similar to untreated control sites. Both beta-lipohydroxyacid and tretinoin induced enhanced epidermal proliferation and thickness with activation of factor XIIIa+dendrocytes. The effects were more pronounced at the tretinoin-treated site. We speculate that TNF-alpha might mediate some of the dermal effects. The beta-lipohydroxyacid mimics some of the stimulatory effects of tretinoin on the epidermis and dermis. This new compound should be listed among topical products boosting the skin tissues affected by ageing.
Piérard
G E
GE
Department of Dermatopathology, University of Liège, Belgium.
Nikkels-Tassoudji
N
N
Arrese
J E
JE
Piérard-Franchimont
C
C
Lévêque
J L
JL
D000287:Administration, Topical; D000328:Adult; D001707:Biopsy, Needle; D004311:Double-Blind Method; D004817:Epidermis / Q000187:drug effects* / Q000473:pathology*; D005260:Female; D000091344:Filaggrin Proteins; D006801:Humans; D006880:Hydroxy Acids / Q000008:administration & dosage*; D007150:Immunohistochemistry; D007641:Keratolytic Agents / Q000008:administration & dosage*; D008297:Male; D008875:Middle Aged; D012016:Reference Values; D012459:Salicylates / Q000008:administration & dosage*; D020156:Salicylic Acid; D012867:Skin / Q000187:drug effects / Q000473:pathology; D015595:Skin Aging / Q000187:drug effects; D014212:Tretinoin / Q000008:administration & dosage*
C000717249:FLG protein, human; D000091344:Filaggrin Proteins; D006880:Hydroxy Acids; D007641:Keratolytic Agents; D012459:Salicylates; D014212:Tretinoin; D020156:Salicylic Acid