title: A biomechanical study of equilibrium in sport rock climbing.
abstract: One of the main objectives of the experiment reported in this article was to analyze the arrangement of the forces applied to the holds accompanying a voluntary right foot release in the hanging rock climber. The three dimensional reaction forces applied to the holds were measured using four holds equipped with strain gauges. The force arrangement after the release consisted of a tripedal stance on the three remaining holds for the vertical forces, and of a bipedal stance on two laterally opposite holds (left foot and left holds) for the horizontal forces. The general significance of the results was analyzed with respect to the mechanism of static equilibrium. However, before conclusions can be drawn, other climbing movements and positions must be analyzed.
authors.affiliation: EA 1609 Université Paris-sud XI, UFR d'Orsay, Division STAPS, Orsay, France. franck.quaine@staps.u-psud.fr
authors.forename: F
authors.initials: F
authors.lastname: Quaine
authors.forename: L
authors.initials: L
authors.lastname: Martin
mesh_terms: D000328:Adult; D001696:Biomechanical Phenomena; D006801:Humans; D008954:Models, Biological; D009051:Mountaineering / Q000502:physiology*; D004856:Postural Balance / Q000502:physiology*; D018709:Statistics, Nonparametric