Incorporation of ceramide 3B in dermatocosmetic emulsions: effect on the transepidermal water loss of sodium lauryl sulphate-damaged skin.
BACKGROUND
In previous work we reported on the efficacy of cosmetic body lotions enriched with skin-identical lipids to reduce the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of ageing and sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)-damaged skin. The observations made depended on the experimental design and clearly raised the question of the importance of the galenic formulation of skin ceramide-containing products.


OBJECTIVE
The aim of the present work was to study the different galenic forms in which ceramide 3B (0.2% w/v) can be incorporated into common o/w emulsions. In addition, we investigated whether supplementation of skin care products with ceramide 3B enriched with penetration enhancers and coemulsifiers could exert a beneficial effect on barrier function, done by measuring their effects on the TEWL of SLS-induced scaly skin.


RESULTS
We found that the technique of incorporating ceramide 3B into the o/w emulsions was important for their final stability. However, no additional positive effect on the TEWL values of SLS-damaged skin could be observed when the efficacy of the ceramide-containing emulsions was compared with that of proper controls.


CONCLUSIONS
Although suitable galenic formulas were developed, no positive effect on TEWL could be observed when ceramide 3B was added in a final concentration of 0.2% (w/v) to different o/w emulsions and applied to SLS-damaged skin.
De Paepe
K
K
Department of Toxicology, Vrije Universiteit Brussel, Brussels, Belgium. kdepaepe@fafy.vub.ac.be
Derde
M P
MP
Roseeuw
D
D
Rogiers
V
V
D000328:Adult; D000704:Analysis of Variance; D002518:Ceramides / Q000627:therapeutic use*; D017453:Dermatitis, Irritant / Q000188:drug therapy; D004655:Emulsions / Q000737:chemistry; D005260:Female; D005542:Forearm; D006801:Humans; D007509:Irritants / Q000009:adverse effects; D017592:Skin Care / Q000379:methods*; D012879:Skin Physiological Phenomena; D012967:Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate / Q000494:pharmacology; D013501:Surface-Active Agents / Q000494:pharmacology; D014870:Water Loss, Insensible / Q000187:drug effects*
D002518:Ceramides; D004655:Emulsions; D007509:Irritants; D013501:Surface-Active Agents; D012967:Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate