Wave-induced sediment transport and sandbar migration.
Onshore sediment transport and sandbar migration are important to the morphological evolution of beaches but are not well understood. Here, a model that accounts for fluid accelerations in waves predicts the onshore sandbar migration observed on an ocean beach. In both the observations and the model, the location of the maximum acceleration-induced transport moves shoreward with the sandbar, resulting in feedback between waves and morphology that drives the bar shoreward until conditions change. A model that combines the effects of transport by waves and mean currents simulated both onshore and offshore bar migration observed over a 45-day period.
Hoefel
Fernanda
F
Massachusetts Institute of Technology/Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution (WHOI) Joint Program in Oceanography, WHOI, Mail Stop 09, Woods Hole, MA 02543, USA. fhoefel@whoi.edu
Elgar
Steve
S