title: The evaluation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsions aging process using classical techniques and a new method: FTIR.
abstract: The purpose of this paper is to show how the utilization of Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy can be interesting in stability studying of cosmetic or pharmaceutical "oil in water" (O/W) emulsions. In this study temperature storage tests were performed to accelerate the aging process and evaluate the stability of five emulsions. Emulsions were analyzed by FTIR and classical methods (conductivity, viscosity, pH, texture analysis) in order to determine a method that would enable predicting the emulsion's stability. During the aging process, modifications of chemical functions are measured by FTIR (using spectrometric indices), such modifications included: a decrease of unsaturation index, an increase of carbonyl index and a broadening of the carbonyl band. This band was deconvoluted to evaluate the contribution of different species in the broadening phenomenon, which seems to be caused by the appearance of free fatty acids. Conductimetry seems to be the most sensitive technique to assess physical modifications during emulsion's aging. Concerning the most unstable emulsions, a progressive increasing of conductivity was observed several months before the emulsion destabilizes. Consequently, FTIR and conductimetry are two complementary techniques. Conductimetry is a useful technique to predict emulsion destabilization while FTIR allows the measurement of chemical modifications and helps to understand the chemical mechanisms which occur during the oxidation.
authors.affiliation: Laboratoire GOAE, CNRS UMR 6171, Service 561, Université Paul Cézanne Aix-Marseille III, Faculté de St Jérôme, Avenue Escadrille Normandie Niemen, 13397 Marseille Cedex 20, France. houdamas@yahoo.fr
authors.forename: H
authors.initials: H
authors.lastname: Masmoudi
authors.forename: Y Le
authors.initials: YL
authors.lastname: Dréau
authors.forename: P
authors.initials: P
authors.lastname: Piccerelle
authors.forename: J
authors.initials: J
authors.lastname: Kister
mesh_terms: D003358:Cosmetics / Q000737:chemistry / Q000592:standards*; D004304:Dosage Forms; D004353:Drug Evaluation, Preclinical / Q000379:methods* / Q000639:trends; D004355:Drug Stability; D004655:Emulsions / Q000737:chemistry / Q000592:standards*; D017550:Spectroscopy, Fourier Transform Infrared / Q000379:methods / Q000639:trends*; D013696:Temperature; D013814:Thermal Conductivity; D013997:Time Factors
chemical_list: D003358:Cosmetics; D004304:Dosage Forms; D004655:Emulsions