title: Skin permeation of retinol in Tween 20-based deformable liposomes: in-vitro evaluation in human skin and keratinocyte models.
abstract: To develop a more effective transdermal delivery method for lipophilic functional cosmetic compounds such as retinol, we formulated various deformable liposomes and compared their transdermal delivery efficiency with those of neutral or negatively-charged conventional liposomes. We tested the deformability of liposomes containing edge activators such as bile salts, polyoxyethylene esters and polyoxyethylene ethers. As indicators of deformability, we used the passed volume and phospholipid ratios during extrusion, as well as the deformability index. We found that the type of edge activator significantly affected the extent of deformability, and that Tween 20 provided the highest level of deformability. Accordingly, we used Tween 20 to formulate deformable liposomes containing retinol in the membrane bilayers, and conducted a skin permeation study in Franz diffusion cells, using dermatomed human skin and three-dimensional human keratinocyte layers. As compared with the use of conventional neutral or negatively-charged liposomes, the use of Tween 20-based deformable liposomes significantly increased the skin permeation of retinol. These results suggested that deformable liposomes might be of potential use for the formulation of retinol and other lipophilic functional cosmetic compounds.
authors.affiliation: School of Life Sciences and Biotechnology, Korea University, Anam-dong, Seungbuk-gu, Seoul 136-701, South Korea. ohyk@korea.ac.kr
authors.forename: Yu-Kyoung
authors.initials: YK
authors.lastname: Oh
authors.forename: Mi Young
authors.initials: MY
authors.lastname: Kim
authors.forename: Jee-Young
authors.initials: JY
authors.lastname: Shin
authors.forename: Tae Woon
authors.initials: TW
authors.lastname: Kim
authors.forename: Mi-Ok
authors.initials: MO
authors.lastname: Yun
authors.forename: Sung Joon
authors.initials: SJ
authors.lastname: Yang
authors.forename: Sang Sook
authors.initials: SS
authors.lastname: Choi
authors.forename: Woon-Won
authors.initials: WW
authors.lastname: Jung
authors.forename: Jung Ae
authors.initials: JA
authors.lastname: Kim
authors.forename: Han-Gon
authors.initials: HG
authors.lastname: Choi
mesh_terms: D000287:Administration, Topical; D002784:Cholesterol / Q000737:chemistry; D005260:Female; D006801:Humans; D066298:In Vitro Techniques; D015603:Keratinocytes / Q000378:metabolism*; D008081:Liposomes; D010539:Permeability; D010713:Phosphatidylcholines / Q000737:chemistry; D010715:Phosphatidylglycerols / Q000737:chemistry; D011136:Polysorbates / Q000737:chemistry*; D012867:Skin / Q000378:metabolism*; D012869:Skin Absorption / Q000187:drug effects*; D013501:Surface-Active Agents / Q000737:chemistry; D014801:Vitamin A / Q000008:administration & dosage*
chemical_list: D008081:Liposomes; D010713:Phosphatidylcholines; D010715:Phosphatidylglycerols; D011136:Polysorbates; D013501:Surface-Active Agents; D014801:Vitamin A; D002784:Cholesterol