Cosmetic applications of selected traditional Chinese herbal medicines.
Because tyrosinase catalyzes melanin synthesis, tyrosinase inhibitors are important in cosmetic skin-whitening. Oxidative stress contributes to skin aging and can adversely affect skin health, which means antioxidants active in skin cells may support skin health. We examined 25 traditional Chinese herbal medicines that might be useful for skin-whitening and skin health. Extracts (100microg/mL) were tested for cytotoxicity on human epidermal melanocytes (HEMn); 12 exhibited low cytotoxicity. Their effects on tyrosinase and melanin inhibitory activities and free radical scavenging activities were further assessed. Phenolic contents were evaluated using Folin-Ciocalteu reagent. Four herbs, Pharbitis nil, Sophora japonica, Spatholobus suberectus, and Morus alba, exhibited potent inhibitory effects on tyrosinase (IC(50) values 24.9, 95.6, 83.9, and 78.3microg/mL, respectively). Melanin inhibition was not dose-dependent. Sophora japonica (IC(50): 14.46microg/mL, 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH); 1.95microg/mL, hydroxyl radical) and Spatholobus suberectus (IC(50): 10.51microg/mL, DPPH; 4.36microg/mL, hydroxyl radical) showed good antioxidative activities and high phenolic contents (255 and 189mg of gallic acid/g extract, respectively). Among active anti-tyrosinase extracts, Sophora japonica and Spatholobus suberectus were especially potent in HEMn cells in terms of free radical scavenging effects and high phenolic contents, making them the strongest candidates for cosmetic application found in the current study.
Department of Dermatology, Taipei Medical University Hospital, Taipei 110, Taiwan.
Kuo-Hsien
KH
Wang
Rong-Dih
RD
Lin
Feng-Lin
FL
Hsu
Yen-Hua
YH
Huang
Hsien-Chang
HC
Chang
Ching-Yi
CY
Huang
Mei-Hsien
MH
Lee
D001713:Biphenyl Compounds; D002470:Cell Survival; D004365:Drugs, Chinese Herbal / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000494:pharmacology* / Q000627:therapeutic use; D016166:Free Radical Scavengers / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000494:pharmacology* / Q000627:therapeutic use; D006801:Humans; D017665:Hydroxyl Radical / Q000737:chemistry; D020128:Inhibitory Concentration 50; D007641:Keratolytic Agents / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000494:pharmacology* / Q000627:therapeutic use; D008543:Melanins / Q000032:analysis; D008544:Melanocytes / Q000187:drug effects / Q000378:metabolism; D014442:Monophenol Monooxygenase / Q000378:metabolism; D008517:Phytotherapy; D010851:Picrates / Q000737:chemistry; D010946:Plants, Medicinal; D012880:Skin Pigmentation / Q000187:drug effects*
D001713:Biphenyl Compounds; D004365:Drugs, Chinese Herbal; D016166:Free Radical Scavengers; D007641:Keratolytic Agents; D008543:Melanins; D010851:Picrates; D017665:Hydroxyl Radical; C004931:1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl; D014442:Monophenol Monooxygenase