title: The use of hydroxy acids on the skin: characteristics of C8-lipohydroxy acid.
abstract: The hydroxy acids are widely used in skin creams because of their exfoliating and rejuvenating effect on photoaged skin. As a member of this family, the salicylic acid derivative known in the literature as 2-hydroxy-5-octanoyl benzoic acid or beta-lipohydroxy acid has also been proposed as an exfoliant and as a treatment of photoaged skin and acne. This article reviews the effects of the hydroxy acids and compares them to those of the salicylic acid derivative. We propose the name C(8)-lipohydroxy acid (C8-LHA) for this derivative to differentiate it from other related compounds. The lipophilic nature of C8-LHA and its relatively slow penetration in the skin afford it an exfoliating effect that is efficient at low concentrations. It appears to have antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and anticomedogenic properties, which make it effective against acne. Its antifungal and exfoliating properties are also likely to prove useful in combating dandruff.
authors.affiliation: L'Oreal Recherche, Shanghai, China.
authors.forename: Didier
authors.initials: D
authors.lastname: Saint-Léger
authors.forename: Jean-Luc
authors.initials: JL
authors.lastname: Lévêque
authors.forename: Michèle
authors.initials: M
authors.lastname: Verschoore
mesh_terms: D000279:Administration, Cutaneous; D005148:Facial Dermatoses / Q000188:drug therapy / Q000473:pathology; D005260:Female; D005500:Follow-Up Studies; D006801:Humans; D006880:Hydroxy Acids / Q000737:chemistry / Q000627:therapeutic use*; D008297:Male; D018570:Risk Assessment; D012459:Salicylates / Q000737:chemistry / Q000627:therapeutic use*; D012680:Sensitivity and Specificity; D012869:Skin Absorption; D015595:Skin Aging / Q000187:drug effects* / Q000473:pathology; D012871:Skin Diseases / Q000175:diagnosis / Q000188:drug therapy*; D023422:Skin Irritancy Tests; D016896:Treatment Outcome
chemical_list: D006880:Hydroxy Acids; D012459:Salicylates