title: Determination of the substantivity of emollients to human hair.
abstract: The determination of silicones and hydrogenated didecenes deposited on human hair from shampoo applications is described. For silicones, induced coupled plasma optical emission spectroscopy (ICP-OES) of extracts and X-ray fluorescence analysis (XRF) of hair strands without any further sample preparation have been applied. Three shampoos from the European and Asian markets have been investigated at repeated shampoo applications followed by the determination of the removability with sodium laureth sulfate. Hydrogenated didecenes have been quantified by GC-MS of extracts. A transparent shampoo containing 1.8% of hydrogenated didecenes delivered via a nanoemulsion was examined in the same way as the commercial shampoos. Finally, the substantivity data were compared with performance data from combability determination and hair volume measurements. Good correlations of analytical data and performance profiles have been obtained.
authors.affiliation: Cognis Deutschland GmbH & Co. KG, Henkelstrasse 67, 40551 Düsseldorf, Germany.
authors.forename: Hans-Martin
authors.initials: HM
authors.lastname: Haake
authors.forename: Hélène
authors.initials: H
authors.lastname: Lagrené
authors.forename: Angela
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Brands
authors.forename: Wolf
authors.initials: W
authors.lastname: Eisfeld
authors.forename: David
authors.initials: D
authors.lastname: Melchior
mesh_terms: D000327:Adsorption; D000473:Alkanes / Q000737:chemistry; D004643:Emollients / Q000737:chemistry*; D008401:Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry; D006197:Hair / Q000737:chemistry*; D006203:Hair Preparations / Q000737:chemistry*; D006801:Humans; D006838:Hydrocarbons / Q000737:chemistry*; D012828:Silicones / Q000737:chemistry*; D013052:Spectrometry, X-Ray Emission; D013057:Spectrum Analysis
chemical_list: D000473:Alkanes; D004643:Emollients; D006203:Hair Preparations; D006838:Hydrocarbons; D012828:Silicones; C012867:decane