title: Physiological determinants of climbing-specific finger endurance and sport rock climbing performance.
abstract: The aim of the study was to examine several physiological responses to a climbing-specific task to identify determinants of endurance in sport rock climbing. Finger strength and endurance of intermediate rock climbers (n = 11) and non-climbers (n = 9) were compared using climbing-specific apparatus. After maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) trials, two isometric endurance tests were performed at 40% (s = 2.5%) MVC until volitional exhaustion (continuous contractions and intermittent contractions of 10 s, with 3 s rest between contractions). Changes in muscle blood oxygenation and muscle blood volume were recorded in the flexor digitorum superficialis using near infra-red spectroscopy. Statistical significance was set at P < 0.05. Climbers had a higher mean MVC (climbers: 485 N, s = 65; non-climbers 375 N, s = 91) (P = 0.009). The group mean endurance test times were similar. The force-time integral, used as a measure of climbing-specific endurance, was greater for climbers in the intermittent test (climbers: 51,769 N x s, s = 12,229; non-climbers: 35,325 N x s, s = 9724) but not in the continuous test (climbers: 21,043 N x s, s = 4474; non-climbers: 15,816 N x s, s = 6263). Recovery of forearm oxygenation during rest phases (intermittent test) explained 41.1% of the variability in the force-time integral. Change in total haemoglobin was significantly greater in non-climbers (continuous test) than climbers (P = 0.023--40% test timepoint, P = 0.014--60% test timepoint). Pressor responses were similar between groups and not related to the force-time integral for either test. We conclude that muscle re-oxygenation during rest phases is a predictor of endurance performance.
authors.affiliation: Institute of Biomedical and Life Sciences, University of Glasgow, Glasgow, UK.
authors.forename: D
authors.initials: D
authors.lastname: MacLeod
authors.forename: D L
authors.initials: DL
authors.lastname: Sutherland
authors.forename: L
authors.initials: L
authors.lastname: Buntin
authors.forename: A
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Whitaker
authors.forename: T
authors.initials: T
authors.lastname: Aitchison
authors.forename: I
authors.initials: I
authors.lastname: Watt
authors.forename: J
authors.initials: J
authors.lastname: Bradley
authors.forename: S
authors.initials: S
authors.lastname: Grant
mesh_terms: D000328:Adult; D016022:Case-Control Studies; D015444:Exercise / Q000502:physiology; D005385:Fingers / Q000502:physiology*; D005542:Forearm / Q000502:physiology*; D006801:Humans; D008297:Male; D009051:Mountaineering / Q000502:physiology*; D009119:Muscle Contraction / Q000502:physiology*; D018482:Muscle, Skeletal / Q000502:physiology*; D010101:Oxygen Consumption; D010807:Physical Endurance / Q000502:physiology*; D005082:Physical Exertion / Q000502:physiology*; D011446:Prospective Studies