title: Repair of photoaged dermal matrix by topical application of a cosmetic 'antiageing' product.
abstract: BACKGROUND
  Photoaged skin is characterized by coarse and fine wrinkles. The mechanism of wrinkle formation appears to involve changes to components of the dermal extracellular matrix. Topical treatment with all-trans retinoic acid (RA) can repair photoaged dermal matrix; this is regarded as the 'gold standard' against which repair agents are judged. To date, little is known regarding the ability of over-the-counter 'antiageing' products to repair photoaged skin.
  
  
  OBJECTIVE
  We used a modified occluded patch test to ascertain whether topical applications of cosmetic 'antiageing' products are able to repair photoaged human skin.
  
  
  METHODS
  Commercially available test products [basic moisturizer, 'antiageing' cream containing different active complex levels (6% active: lipopentapeptide, white lupin peptides, antioxidants, retinyl palmitate; 2% active: lipopentapeptide, white lupin peptides, antioxidants)] were applied under occlusion for 12 days prior to biopsy and histological assessment in photoaged volunteers (n=9). RA was used as a positive control.
  
  
  RESULTS
  In agreement with previous studies, the patch-test study revealed that RA produced significant fibrillin-1 deposition in the papillary dermis (P<0.01) but had little effect on procollagen I or matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression. The 6% total active complex formulation, however, increased the deposition of fibrillin-1 and procollagen I (P<0.01, P<0.05, respectively).
  
  
  CONCLUSIONS
  This study indicates that in an in vivo 12-day patch test an over-the-counter cosmetic product can induce changes in photoaged dermal extracellular matrix, which are indicative of repair.
authors: Dermatological Sciences Research Group, The University of Manchester, Manchester M13 9PT, UK. rachel.watson@manchester.ac.uk
authors: R E B
authors: RE
authors: Watson
authors: S P
authors: SP
authors: Long
authors: J J
authors: JJ
authors: Bowden
authors: J Y
authors: JY
authors: Bastrilles
authors: S P
authors: SP
authors: Barton
authors: C E M
authors: CE
authors: Griffiths
mesh_terms: D000287:Administration, Topical; D000328:Adult; D000368:Aged; D024042:Collagen Type I; D003358:Cosmetics / Q000008:administration & dosage*; D020405:Dermis / Q000187:drug effects / Q000528:radiation effects*; D005260:Female; D000071838:Fibrillin-1; D000071837:Fibrillins; D006801:Humans; D007150:Immunohistochemistry; D008297:Male; D020781:Matrix Metalloproteinase 1 / Q000378:metabolism*; D008840:Microfilament Proteins / Q000378:metabolism*; D008875:Middle Aged; D015595:Skin Aging / Q000187:drug effects* / Q000528:radiation effects; D016896:Treatment Outcome; D054392:Adipokines
chemical_list: D024042:Collagen Type I; D003358:Cosmetics; D000071838:Fibrillin-1; D000071837:Fibrillins; D020781:Matrix Metalloproteinase 1; D008840:Microfilament Proteins; C000605722:FBN1 protein, human; D054392:Adipokines