Inhibitory effects of a novel ascorbic derivative, disodium isostearyl 2-O-L-ascorbyl phosphate on melanogenesis.
We investigated the inhibitory effects of a novel amphiphilic ascorbic derivative, disodium isostearyl 2-O-L-ascorbyl phosphate (VCP-IS-2Na), synthesized from a hydrophilic ascorbic derivative, sodium-2-O-L-ascorbyl phosphate (VCP-Na), on melanogenesis in cultured human melanoma cells, normal human melanocytes, and three-dimensional cultured human skin models. Melanin synthesis in melanoma cells treated with VCP-IS-2Na at 300 muM and melanocytes treated with VCP-IS-2Na at 100 muM decreased to 23% and 52% of that in non-treated cells, respectively, and the cell viability was not affected. VCP-IS-2Na also significantly suppressed the cellular tyrosinase activity of melanoma cells and melanocytes. Melanin synthesis in human skin models was evaluated by macro- and microscopic observations of its pigmentation and quantitative measurements of melanin. Treatment of the human skin models with 1.0% VCP-IS-2Na did not inhibit cell viability, while melanin synthesis was decreased to 21% of that in the control. In contrast, L-ascorbic acid (VC) and VCP-Na did not seem to inhibit melanin synthesis and cellular tyrosinase activity. These results indicate that VCP-IS-2Na may be an effective whitening agent for the skin, and we expect the application of VCP-IS-2Na in the cosmetic industry.
Matsuda
Sanae
S
Central Research Center, Toyo Beauty Co., Ltd.; 3-13-8 Higashinakamoto, Higashinari-ku, Osaka 537-0021, Japan. matsuda@toyobeauty.co.jp
Shibayama
Hiroharu
H
Hisama
Masayoshi
M
Ohtsuki
Mamitaro
M
Iwaki
Masahiro
M
D001205:Ascorbic Acid / Q000031:analogs & derivatives* / Q000494:pharmacology; D045744:Cell Line, Tumor; D049109:Cell Proliferation / Q000187:drug effects; D006801:Humans; D007202:Indicators and Reagents; D009682:Magnetic Resonance Spectroscopy; D008543:Melanins / Q000037:antagonists & inhibitors* / Q000096:biosynthesis*; D008545:Melanoma / Q000378:metabolism; D014442:Monophenol Monooxygenase / Q000037:antagonists & inhibitors; D012867:Skin / Q000166:cytology / Q000378:metabolism; D016339:Spectrometry, Mass, Fast Atom Bombardment; D013056:Spectrophotometry, Ultraviolet; D013778:Tetrazolium Salts; D013844:Thiazoles
D007202:Indicators and Reagents; D008543:Melanins; D013778:Tetrazolium Salts; D013844:Thiazoles; C528521:disodium isostearyl 2-O-L-ascorbyl phosphate; D014442:Monophenol Monooxygenase; C022616:thiazolyl blue; D001205:Ascorbic Acid