title: Reduced barrier efficiency in axillary stratum corneum.
abstract: The skin of the axilla is cosmetically important with millions of consumers daily applying antiperspirant/deodorant products. Despite this, we know virtually nothing about axillary skin or how antiperspirant (AP) use impacts upon it. To characterize the axillary stratum corneum and determine whether this is a unique skin type, we have looked at stratum corneum composition and function, particularly its barrier properties, and compared it with other body sites. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and corneosurfametry (CSM) revealed a reduced barrier function in the axilla. HPTLC analysis of the stratum corneum lipids demonstrated statistically elevated levels of fatty acids, ceramides, and particularly cholesterol in the axilla. Both ceramide and cholesterol did not appear to change with depth, indicating that they were predominantly of stratum corneum origin. On the other hand, at least some of the fatty acid had a sebaceous origin. We hypothesized that the reduced barrier function might be owing to the changes in the crucial ceramide : cholesterol ratio. To address this, we used a combination of attenuated total reflectance-Fourier-transformed infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) with cyanoacrylate sampling. These results demonstrated more ordered lipid-lamellae phase behaviour in the axilla, suggesting that the elevated cholesterol might form crystal microdomains within the lipid lamellae, allowing an increase in water flux. Since an exaggerated application of antiperspirant had no effect upon the axilla barrier properties, it is concluded that this region of skin physiologically has a reduced barrier function.
authors.affiliation: Unilever R&D, Colworth Hse, Sharnbrook, Bedford, MK44 1LQ, UK. Allan.Watkinson@Unilever.com
authors.forename: A
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Watkinson
authors.forename: R S
authors.initials: RS
authors.lastname: Lee
authors.forename: A E
authors.initials: AE
authors.lastname: Moore
authors.forename: P D A
authors.initials: PD
authors.lastname: Pudney
authors.forename: S E
authors.initials: SE
authors.lastname: Paterson
authors.forename: A V
authors.initials: AV
authors.lastname: Rawlings