Formulating for efficacy.
Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products? In order to achieve this, the right active needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.
Wiechers
J W
JW
Uniqema Skin R&D, Gouda, The Netherlands. johann.wiechers@uniqema.com
Kelly
C L
CL
Blease
T G
TG
Dederen
J C
JC