Relationship between UVA protection and skin response to UV light: proposal for labelling UVA protection.
Definition and validation of a most relevant method to assess ultravoilet A (UVA) protection is a major concern for industry, authorities and consumers. However, due to the lack of knowledge about all the biological phenomena involved, the level of UVA protection needed, the ways to assess and label it, remain controversial. In order to overcome this situation, the paper deals with the outcomes of a mathematical model to calculate the distribution between ultravoilet B (UVB) and UVA components of skin responses to UV light. Mathematical calculations of UVB and UVA erythemal components of skin response to sunlight are developed from the well-known determination procedure to calculate the sunburn protection factor (SPF) of sunscreens. The model establishes the relationship between the UVA component of skin erythemal response to overall UV radiation received from sunlight and the ratio SPF/PFAe (erythemal protection factor) where SPF is the product and PFAe is related to the UVA part of the sunlight. Depending on the efficacy profile of sunscreens, the skin erythemal response may be mainly promoted by UVB rays as it normally occurs in unprotected skin or on contrary by UVA rays. Therefore, the efficacy profile of sunscreens defines the deepness where biological events induced by sunlight take place. This new relationship pinpoints the tremendous importance of the protection afforded by sunscreen products in the UVA range when erythema is taken as biological response. By extrapolation of the model to any other biological skin response it becomes possible to predict how to improve the efficiency of sunscreen products in the future. UVA protection afforded by sunscreens should be improved until reaching the same level as the SPF protection factor so that all UV-induced biological responses could be prevented or lowered at the same extend. To enforce this improvement, a proposal to classify sunscreen products in relation with their UVA protection is made.
Jean-Louis Refrégier
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L'Oréal Recherche appliquée et développement, Centre Charles Zviak, Clichy, France. jlrefregier@rd.loreal.com