Antiaging action of retinol: from molecular to clinical.
The antiaging efficacy of retinol (ROL) has been explored mainly clinically in photoprotected skin sites and for high doses of ROL (0.4-1.6%). The objective of the study was to demonstrate the antiaging action of a low and tolerable dose of ROL (0.1%) ex vivo by measuring the expression of cellular retinoic-acid-binding protein II (CRABP2) and heparin-binding epidermal growth factor (HBEGF) by a histological evaluation of the epidermis and in vivo by assessing major aging signs and performing three-dimensional profilometry and digital imaging during a 9-month double-blind placebo-controlled study involving 48 volunteers. Finally, epidermal cell proliferation was evaluated using tryptophan fluorescence spectroscopy. Our results demonstrate that 0.1% ROL induced CRABP2 and HBEGF gene expression and increased keratinocyte proliferation and epidermal thickness. In human volunteers, topical application of a ROL-containing product improved all major aging signs assessed in our study (wrinkles under the eyes, fine lines and tone evenness). Moreover, tryptophan fluorescence increased in the active-agent-treated group and not in the placebo-treated group, indicating that cell proliferation was accelerated in vivo. These data demonstrate that a product containing a low dose (0.1%) of ROL promotes keratinocyte proliferation ex vivo and in vivo, induces epidermal thickening ex vivo and alleviates skin aging signs, without any significant adverse reaction.
Bellemère
G
G
Pharmacology and Toxicology Department, Johnson & Johnson Consumer France, Val de Reuil, France.
Stamatas
G N
GN
Bruère
V
V
Bertin
C
C
Issachar
N
N
Oddos
T
T
D000279:Administration, Cutaneous; D000328:Adult; D049109:Cell Proliferation / Q000187:drug effects; D004311:Double-Blind Method; D000078404:Epidermal Cells; D004817:Epidermis / Q000187:drug effects; D005260:Female; D005786:Gene Expression Regulation / Q000187:drug effects*; D066257:Heparin-binding EGF-like Growth Factor; D006801:Humans; D036341:Intercellular Signaling Peptides and Proteins / Q000235:genetics; D015603:Keratinocytes / Q000187:drug effects / Q000378:metabolism; D008875:Middle Aged; D018168:Receptors, Retinoic Acid / Q000235:genetics; D015595:Skin Aging / Q000187:drug effects* / Q000235:genetics; D013050:Spectrometry, Fluorescence; D014364:Tryptophan / Q000737:chemistry; D014801:Vitamin A / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000009:adverse effects / Q000494:pharmacology*; D014815:Vitamins / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000009:adverse effects / Q000494:pharmacology*
C587883:HBEGF protein, human; D066257:Heparin-binding EGF-like Growth Factor; D036341:Intercellular Signaling Peptides and Proteins; D018168:Receptors, Retinoic Acid; D014815:Vitamins; C082928:retinoic acid binding protein II, cellular; D014801:Vitamin A; D014364:Tryptophan