title: Climbing time to exhaustion is a determinant of climbing performance in high-level sport climbers.
abstract: We studied which physiological and kinanthropometric characteristics determine climbing performance in 16 high-level sports climbers aged 29.9 +/- 4.9 years. Body composition parameters were measured with dual energy X-ray absorptiometry scanner. We also measured kinanthropometric and physical fitness parameters. The sex-specific 75th percentile value of onsight climbing ability was used to divide the sample into expert (<75th) and elite (> or =75th) climbers. All the analyses were adjusted by sex. The 75th percentile value of onsight climbing ability was 7b in women and 8b in men. There were no differences between expert and elite climbers in the studied variables, except in climbing time to exhaustion and bone mineral density. Elite climbers had a significantly higher time to exhaustion than the expert group (770.2 +/- 385 vs. 407.7 +/- 150 s, respectively, P = 0.001). These results suggest that, among climbers with a high level of performance, as those analysed in this study, climbing time to exhaustion is a major determinant of climbing performance.
authors.affiliation: Department of Physiology, School of Medicine, University of Granada, 18012 Granada, Spain. vanespa@ugr.es
authors.forename: Vanesa
authors.initials: V
authors.lastname: España-Romero
authors.forename: Francisco B
authors.initials: FB
authors.lastname: Ortega Porcel
authors.forename: Enrique G
authors.initials: EG
authors.lastname: Artero
authors.forename: David
authors.initials: D
authors.lastname: Jiménez-Pavón
authors.forename: Angel
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Gutiérrez Sainz
authors.forename: Manuel J
authors.initials: MJ
authors.lastname: Castillo Garzón
authors.forename: Jonatan R
authors.initials: JR
authors.lastname: Ruiz
mesh_terms: D000328:Adult; D056352:Athletes; D054874:Athletic Performance / Q000502:physiology*; D001823:Body Composition / Q000502:physiology; D001837:Body Weights and Measures; D005260:Female; D018737:Hand Strength / Q000502:physiology; D006801:Humans; D008297:Male; D009051:Mountaineering / Q000502:physiology*; D010101:Oxygen Consumption / Q000502:physiology; D005082:Physical Exertion / Q000502:physiology*; D010809:Physical Fitness / Q000502:physiology; D013997:Time Factors
references.citation: Br J Sports Med. 1997 Sep;31(3):224-8
references.pmid: 9298558
references.citation: Eur J Appl Physiol. 2004 Apr;91(4):361-72
references.pmid: 14985990
references.citation: Med Sci Sports Exerc. 2000 May;32(5):911-7
references.pmid: 10795780
references.citation: J Hand Surg Am. 2006 Oct;31(8):1367-72
references.pmid: 17027801
references.citation: J Sports Sci. 2009 Mar;27(5):469-77
references.pmid: 19204847
references.citation: J Sports Med Phys Fitness. 1995 Mar;35(1):20-4
references.pmid: 7474988
references.citation: J Sports Sci. 1993 Apr;11(2):113-7
references.pmid: 8497013
references.citation: Exerc Sport Sci Rev. 1974;2:131-53
references.pmid: 4466663
references.citation: J Sports Med Phys Fitness. 1996 Dec;36(4):255-60
references.pmid: 9062048
references.citation: Int J Sports Med. 2000 Apr;21(3):185-90
references.pmid: 10834350
references.citation: J Sci Med Sport. 2004 Mar;7(1):11-22
references.pmid: 15139160
references.citation: Eur J Clin Nutr. 2005 Oct;59(10):1158-66
references.pmid: 16047030
references.citation: Med Sci Sports Exerc. 2006 Mar;38(3):439-44
references.pmid: 16540830
references.citation: Br J Sports Med. 2005 Sep;39(9):611-6
references.pmid: 16118297
references.citation: J Hand Ther. 2005 Jan-Mar;18(1):19-29
references.pmid: 15674783
references.citation: Proc Inst Mech Eng H. 1993;207(2):87-92
references.pmid: 8280318
references.citation: J Strength Cond Res. 2004 Feb;18(1):77-83
references.pmid: 14971979
references.citation: J Hand Surg Am. 2002 Sep;27(5):897-901
references.pmid: 12239682
references.citation: Br J Sports Med. 1999 Feb;33(1):14-8
references.pmid: 10027051
references.citation: Sports Med. 2006;36(6):529-45
references.pmid: 16737345
references.citation: Med Sci Sports Exerc. 1998 Jul;30(7):1118-22
references.pmid: 9662682
references.citation: Br J Sports Med. 2003;37(5):420-4
references.pmid: 14514533
references.citation: Med Sci Sports Exerc. 2003 Jul;35(7):1225-31
references.pmid: 12840646
references.citation: Res Q Exerc Sport. 2005 Dec;76(4):426-32
references.pmid: 16739680
references.citation: Int J Sports Med. 2001 May;22(4):280-4
references.pmid: 11414671
references.citation: Eur J Appl Physiol. 2006 Nov;98(5):489-96
references.pmid: 17021787
references.citation: Eur J Appl Physiol. 2007 Oct;101(3):293-300
references.pmid: 17602238
references.citation: J Sports Sci. 1996 Aug;14(4):301-9
references.pmid: 8887209
references.citation: Br J Nutr. 2009 Mar;101(6):871-8
references.pmid: 18702849
references.citation: J Hand Surg Am. 2008 Mar;33(3):378-84
references.pmid: 18343294
references.citation: Br J Sports Med. 2000 Oct;34(5):359-65; discussion 366
references.pmid: 11049146
references.citation: Arch Phys Med Rehabil. 2005 Feb;86(2):328-31
references.pmid: 15706562
references.citation: Int J Sports Med. 1997 Aug;18(6):449-53
references.pmid: 9351691
references.citation: J Sports Sci. 2001 Jul;19(7):499-505
references.pmid: 11461053