title: Differential deposition of emollients from tripartite formulation systems.
abstract: To date, emollients are included in skin care formulations although not much is known about their adsorption/deposition properties and/or the interactions of the constituents within these multi-component systems. The modulation of the adsorption/deposition via the use of specific surfactant and/or emollient systems could therefore help to increase performance and sensorial benefits as well as to reduce adverse effects. In this study, the effects of various tripartite systems consisting of sodium laureth sulphate (SLES), a co-surfactant and an emollient were studied. The two different emollients tested adsorbed with varying amounts although the same surfactant/co-surfactant system was used. Interestingly, the deposition of both SLES and/or the emollient is also substantially influenced by the emollient component itself as well as by the co-surfactant used. Sensory assessments showed that although SLES has a negative effect on the skin feel, adsorbed emollients improve skin softness and smoothness. These results show that optimization of performance is possible when using a co-surfactant best suited for the emollient.
authors.affiliation: Cognis GmbH, Henkelstr. 67, Düsseldorf, Germany. annette.mehling@cognis.com
authors.forename: A
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Mehling
authors.forename: H-M
authors.initials: HM
authors.lastname: Haake
authors.forename: W
authors.initials: W
authors.lastname: Poly
mesh_terms: D000818:Animals; D003358:Cosmetics / Q000737:chemistry / Q000493:pharmacokinetics*; D004311:Double-Blind Method; D004643:Emollients / Q000737:chemistry / Q000493:pharmacokinetics*; D006801:Humans; D066298:In Vitro Techniques; D012867:Skin / Q000187:drug effects / Q000378:metabolism; D012869:Skin Absorption; D012967:Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate / Q000737:chemistry / Q000493:pharmacokinetics*; D018709:Statistics, Nonparametric; D013501:Surface-Active Agents / Q000737:chemistry / Q000493:pharmacokinetics*; D013552:Swine
chemical_list: D003358:Cosmetics; D004643:Emollients; D013501:Surface-Active Agents; D012967:Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate