Glycolipid biosurfactants, mannosylerythritol lipids, repair the damaged hair.
Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs), are produced from feedstock by the genus Pseudozyma, and are the most promising biosurfactants known due to its versatile interfacial and biochemical actions. In order to broaden the application in cosmetics, the hair care properties of MELs were investigated using damaged hair. On electron microscopic observation, the damaged hair was dramatically recovered with applying MEL-A and MEL-B. The tensile strength of the damaged hair increased by treatment with MEL-A (122.0 +/- 13.5 gf/p), MEL-B (119.4 +/- 7.6 gf/p) and ceramide (100.7 +/- 15.9 gf/p) compared with only lauryl glucoside (96.7 +/- 12.7 gf/p), indicating the advantage of MELs on hair care treatment. In addition, the average friction coefficient of the damaged hair was maintained after treatment with MEL-A (0.108 +/- 0.002), MEL-B (0.107 +/- 0.003) and the ceramide (0.111 +/- 0.003), although lauryl glucoside treatment increased the average friction coefficient (0.126 +/- 0.003). The increase of bending rigidity by treatment with lauryl glucoside (0.204 +/- 0.002) was prevented by treatment with MEL-A (0.129 +/- 0.002), MEL-B (0.176 +/- 0.003) and the ceramide (0.164 +/- 0.002). Consequently, MELs are proposed to be the new hair care ingredient, which are the highly useful agent for not only for the recovery of damaged hair but also for providing the smooth and flexible hair.
Morita
Tomotake
T
Research Institute for Innovations in Sustainable Chemistry, National Institute of Advanced Industrial Science and Technology (AIST), Ibaraki.
Kitagawa
Masaru
M
Yamamoto
Shuhei
S
Sogabe
Atsushi
A
Imura
Tomohiro
T
Fukuoka
Tokuma
T
Kitamoto
Dai
D
D002518:Ceramides / Q000737:chemistry / Q000494:pharmacology; D004548:Elasticity / Q000187:drug effects / Q000502:physiology; D005260:Female; D017276:Friction / Q000187:drug effects / Q000502:physiology; D006017:Glycolipids / Q000737:chemistry / Q000378:metabolism / Q000494:pharmacology*; D006197:Hair / Q000187:drug effects* / Q000473:pathology* / Q000502:physiology / Q000648:ultrastructure; D006801:Humans; D008855:Microscopy, Electron, Scanning; D013501:Surface-Active Agents / Q000737:chemistry / Q000378:metabolism / Q000494:pharmacology*; D013718:Tensile Strength / Q000187:drug effects / Q000502:physiology; D014587:Ustilaginales / Q000235:genetics / Q000378:metabolism
D002518:Ceramides; D006017:Glycolipids; D013501:Surface-Active Agents; C439671:mannosylerythritol lipid