title: In vitro/in vivo and analytical evaluation of sunless tanning formulations containing different rheology modifiers.
abstract: In vitro data suggest that different in vivo performances are expected for two dihydroxyacetone (DHA)-containing formulations with similar concentrations of DHA and excipients but different commercially available rheology modifiers: one with a cationic polymer-based rheology modifier (blend) [dimethylacrylamide/ethyltrimonium chloride methacrylate copolymer (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6 (and) C10-11 isoparaffin]; and the other with a polyacrylamide-based rheology modifier (blend) [polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7]. Both rheology modifiers (blends) contained comparable levels of polymers and were used at 3% w/w (as supplied). Differences in color development were illustrated in vitro with respect to the yellow/red and lightness/chroma parameters, which were confirmed in the followup in vivo studies. The test article with the cationic polymer-based rheology modifier produced a more natural sunless tan, comparable to a desirable sun-induced tan, for all panelists, one that was more uniform and lasted longer compared with the sunless tan generated by the test article with the polyacrylamide-based rheology modifier. A method for HPLC analysis of DHA in sunless tanning formulations was established and utilized to confirm concentrations of DHA in test articles.
authors.affiliation: Ciba Corporation (Part of BASF Group), Tarrytown, NY, USA.
authors.forename: Olga V
authors.initials: OV
authors.lastname: Dueva-Koganov
authors.forename: Yamini
authors.initials: Y
authors.lastname: Mandalia
authors.forename: Juan
authors.initials: J
authors.lastname: Brito
authors.forename: Colleen
authors.initials: C
authors.lastname: Rocafort
authors.forename: Steven
authors.initials: S
authors.lastname: Orofino
authors.forename: Gustavo
authors.initials: G
authors.lastname: Vazquez
mesh_terms: D002851:Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid; D003358:Cosmetics; D006801:Humans; D066298:In Vitro Techniques; D012212:Rheology; D055108:Sunbathing
chemical_list: D003358:Cosmetics