title: Lifting properties of the alkamide fraction from the fruit husks of Zanthoxylum bungeanum.
abstract: The fruits of various Zanthoxylum species are used as a spice in the Chinese and Japanese cuisine because of their delicate flavour and tingling properties. The lipophilic hydroxyalkamides hydroxy α- and β-sanshools (1a,b) have been identified as the tingling principles of these plants, and previous studies have validated a sanshool-rich lipophilic extract from the fruit husks of Z. bungeanum Maxim. (Zanthalene ® ) as an anti-itching cosmetic ingredient. Because tingling is a sort of 'paralytic pungency', and Zanthalene ® potently inhibits synaptic transmission, we have investigated its capacity to relax subcutaneous muscles and act as a topical lifting agent for wrinkles. An anti-wrinkles extract rich in spilanthol (2), a lipophilic alkamide having sensory properties similar to those of Zanthalene ® , was used as a reference. Short-term (lifting effect) and long-term (anti-wrinkle) improvements of skin roughness parameters were evaluated by both objectives' and subjectives' measurements. An immediate 'lifting' effect was observed with the sanshool-rich lipophilic extract, at dosages at which the reference alkamide extract was inactive in the objective assays. Limited desensitization after repeated application and good overall tolerability were observed, although a modest long-term anti-wrinkle effect was shown by both products. Taken together, these observations validate the use of sanshool-rich lipophilic extracts as an efficacious, immediate-action lifting agent, and exemplify the relevance of sensory observations to foster the development of innovative cosmetic ingredients.
authors.affiliation: Indena S.p.A., Viale Ortles 12, Milan ISPE, Via Bruschetti 1, Milan, Italy.
authors.forename: C
authors.initials: C
authors.lastname: Artaria
authors.forename: G
authors.initials: G
authors.lastname: Maramaldi
authors.forename: A
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Bonfigli
authors.forename: L
authors.initials: L
authors.lastname: Rigano
authors.forename: G
authors.initials: G
authors.lastname: Appendino
mesh_terms: D000328:Adult; D000368:Aged; D000577:Amides / Q000737:chemistry*; D004311:Double-Blind Method; D005260:Female; D006801:Humans; D008875:Middle Aged; D010936:Plant Extracts / Q000737:chemistry / Q000494:pharmacology*; D015595:Skin Aging / Q000187:drug effects*; D032106:Zanthoxylum / Q000737:chemistry*
chemical_list: D000577:Amides; D010936:Plant Extracts