title: Surface rejuvenating effect of Achillea millefolium extract.
abstract: Proopiomelanocortin is a precursor peptide that gives rise to several neuropeptides including adrenocorticotrophic hormone (ACTH) and β-endorphin. POMC-derived peptides have been shown to be synthesized in human epidermis where they modulate numerous skin functions. Because we previously observed that melanocortin receptor-2 and μ-opioid receptor 1, the respective receptors for ACTH and β-endorphin decreased with ageing in human epidermis, we have selected an active ingredient (INCI name: Achillea millefolium extract) able to upregulate receptor expressions. The aim of the present work was first to evaluate the effect of A. millefolium extract on the expression pattern of various epidermal differentiation markers ex vivo in normal human skin biopsies using quantitative image analysis and second to evaluate its capacity to rejuvenate the appearance of skin surface in vivo. Results show an improved expression profile of cytokeratin 10, transglutaminase-1 and filaggrin in cultured skin biopsies as well as an increased epidermal thickness. In vivo, a 2-month treatment with A. millefolium extract at 2% significantly improved the appearance of wrinkles and pores compared with placebo. Results were also directionally better than those of glycolic acid that was chosen as reference resurfacing molecule.
authors.affiliation: BASF Beauty Care Solutions France S.A.S, 32 rue Saint-Jean-de-Dieu, F-69366, Lyon Cedex 07, France. sabine.pain@basf.com
authors.forename: S
authors.initials: S
authors.lastname: Pain
authors.forename: C
authors.initials: C
authors.lastname: Altobelli
authors.forename: A
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Boher
authors.forename: L
authors.initials: L
authors.lastname: Cittadini
authors.forename: M
authors.initials: M
authors.lastname: Favre-Mercuret
authors.forename: C
authors.initials: C
authors.lastname: Gaillard
authors.forename: B
authors.initials: B
authors.lastname: Sohm
authors.forename: B
authors.initials: B
authors.lastname: Vogelgesang
authors.forename: V
authors.initials: V
authors.lastname: André-Frei
mesh_terms: D031162:Achillea / Q000737:chemistry*; D000368:Aged; D001706:Biopsy; D004311:Double-Blind Method; D005260:Female; D000091344:Filaggrin Proteins; D006651:Histocytochemistry; D006801:Humans; D007381:Intermediate Filament Proteins / Q000378:metabolism; D007633:Keratins / Q000378:metabolism; D018613:Microscopy, Confocal; D008875:Middle Aged; D010936:Plant Extracts / Q000008:administration & dosage*; D044103:Receptor, Melanocortin, Type 2 / Q000235:genetics / Q000378:metabolism*; D017450:Receptors, Opioid, mu / Q000235:genetics / Q000378:metabolism*; D012867:Skin / Q000187:drug effects / Q000378:metabolism; D015595:Skin Aging / Q000187:drug effects*; D018709:Statistics, Nonparametric; D011503:Transglutaminases / Q000378:metabolism
chemical_list: C000717249:FLG protein, human; D000091344:Filaggrin Proteins; D007381:Intermediate Filament Proteins; D010936:Plant Extracts; D044103:Receptor, Melanocortin, Type 2; D017450:Receptors, Opioid, mu; D007633:Keratins; D011503:Transglutaminases; C105804:transglutaminase 1