title: Sport-specific power assessment for rock climbing.
abstract: OBJECTIVE
  The popularity of rock climbing has resulted in a growing research base for the sport. However, at present there is a lack of sport-specific measures of performance in the field. The aim of this study was to examine the use of the powerslap test as a sport specific power measure.
  
  
  METHODS
  The participants in this study were categorised into four different ability groups (novice, intermediate, advanced and elite) based on self reported lead grade. Two separate experiments were conducted to determine validity and reliability. The powerslap test was conducted on a revolution board with two variations - wide and narrow grip, for both sides of the body. The test started with the climber hanging at full extension from two holds from which a pull up movement was made releasing one hand to slap a scaled score board above.
  
  
  RESULTS
  There was a significant relationship between powerslap scores and climbing ability (Left Wide: r=0.7, P<0.0005; right wide: r=0.69, P<0.0005; left narrow: r=0.73, P<0.0005; right narrow: r =0.72, P<0.0005). Further to this, scores on the powerslap narrow test were significantly differentiated by climber ability (LEFT: F(3,37)=15.74, P<0.0005; right: F(3,37)=12.16, P<0.0005). Limits of agreement and intra-class correlation indicated that the powerslap test is a reliable performance measure.
  
  
  CONCLUSIONS
  According to the present findings the narrow grip variation of the powerslap test is a useful sport-specific power test that is related to climbing performance.
authors: School of Sciences and Physical Education, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, Canterbury, New Zealand. nick.draper@canterbury.ac.nz
authors: N
authors: N
authors: Draper
authors: T
authors: T
authors: Dickson
authors: G
authors: G
authors: Blackwell
authors: S
authors: S
authors: Priestley
authors: S
authors: S
authors: Fryer
authors: H
authors: H
authors: Marshall
authors: J
authors: J
authors: Shearman
authors: M
authors: M
authors: Hamlin
authors: D
authors: D
authors: Winter
authors: G
authors: G
authors: Ellis
mesh_terms: D000328:Adult; D015308:Anaerobic Threshold; D000704:Analysis of Variance; D054874:Athletic Performance / Q000502:physiology; D005260:Female; D006801:Humans; D008297:Male; D009051:Mountaineering / Q000502:physiology*; D053580:Muscle Strength / Q000502:physiology*; D010807:Physical Endurance / Q000502:physiology*; D018709:Statistics, Nonparametric