Study on the stability of deoxyArbutin in an anhydrous emulsion system.
The skin-whitening agent, deoxyArbutin, is a potent tyrosinase inhibitor that is safer than hydroquinone and arbutin. However, it is thermolabile in aqueous solutions, where it decomposes to hydroquinone. Pharmaceutical and cosmetic emulsions are normally oil-in-water (o/w) or water-in-oil (w/o) systems; however, emulsions can be formulated with no aqueous phase to produce an anhydrous emulsion system. An anhydrous emulsion system could offer a stable vehicle for compounds that are sensitive to hydrolysis or oxidation. Therefore, to enhance the stability of deoxyArbutin in formulations, we chose the polyol-in-silicone, anhydrous emulsion system as the basic formulation for investigation. The quantity of deoxyArbutin and the accumulation of hydroquinone in both hydrous and anhydrous emulsions at various temperatures were analyzed through an established high performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method. The results indicated that water increased the decomposition of deoxyArbutin in the formulations and that the polyol-in-silicone, oil-based, anhydrous emulsion system provided a relatively stable surrounding for the deoxyArbutin that delayed its degradation at 25 °C and 45 °C. Moreover, the composition of the inner hydrophilic phase, containing different amounts of glycerin and propylene glycol, affected the stability of deoxyArbutin. Thus, these results will be beneficial when using deoxyArbutin in cosmetics and medicines in the future.
Department of Cosmetic Science, Providence University, 200 Chung-Chi Road, Shalu, Taichung 43301, Taiwan; E-Mails:  chyang@pu.edu.tw  (C.-H.Y.);  nfchang@pu.edu.tw  (N.-F.C.);  jwu2@pu.edu.tw  (P.-S.W.);  yishyan@gm.pu.edu.tw  (Y.-S.C.);  rita770115@hotmail.com  (C.-W.C.).
Chih-Chien
CC
Lin
Chao-Hsun
CH
Yang
Nai-Fang
NF
Chang
Pey-Shiuan
PS
Wu
Yi-Shyan
YS
Chen
Shu-Mei
SM
Lee
Chiu-Wen
CW
Chen
D001104:Arbutin / Q000031:analogs & derivatives* / Q000737:chemistry; D002851:Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid; D004355:Drug Stability; D004655:Emulsions / Q000737:chemistry*; D006868:Hydrolysis; D006873:Hydroquinones / Q000737:chemistry; D009821:Oils / Q000737:chemistry; D011108:Polymers / Q000737:chemistry*; D012825:Silicon / Q000737:chemistry*; D013696:Temperature; D014867:Water / Q000737:chemistry
D004655:Emulsions; D006873:Hydroquinones; D009821:Oils; D011108:Polymers; C024617:polyol; D014867:Water; D001104:Arbutin; C504954:deoxyarbutin; C031927:hydroquinone; D012825:Silicon