title: Clinical evaluation of a dioic acid-based formulation on facial skin in an Indian population.
abstract: The aim of this work was to investigate the effects of 1,18-octadecen-9-dioic acid (dioic acid) and a Rumex occidentalis extract complex for their skin-lightening action in an Indian population. Prior to the clinical study, the efficacy of dioic as an inhibitor of melanogenesis was confirmed on dark-pigmented human melanocytes. As part of a 12-week vehicle-controlled clinical study, the skin-lightening effect of a test product containing 1% dioic acid, 2% of a Rumex occidentalis extract and sunscreens (SPF 15) was assessed on the facial skin of 71 Indian female volunteers. Change in skin colour was monitored by (A) Chroma Meter® measurement (L*, a*, b*) and Individual Typology Angle (ITA˚) calculation and (B) Visual grading of standardized photographs by a dermatologist. Colorimetric measurements on volunteers' cheeks showed a significant increase of L* and ITA˚ compared to baseline after 4, 8 and 12 weeks of test product application. For both L* and ITA˚ measurements, changes were significantly different than the SPF 15-containing vehicle at weeks 4 and 12. These results were confirmed by the dermatological visual grading. The overall skin-lightening action of the test product was beyond the one observed with the SPF 15 vehicle. These findings show that a dioic acid and Rumex occidentalis complex deliver a significant skin-lightening effect on facial skin in an Indian population.
authors.affiliation: Oriflame Skin Research Institute AB, Stockholm, Sweden. eve.merinville@oriflame.com
authors.forename: E
authors.initials: E
authors.lastname: Merinville
authors.forename: A J
authors.initials: AJ
authors.lastname: Byrne
authors.forename: L
authors.initials: L
authors.lastname: Visdal-Johnsen
authors.forename: G
authors.initials: G
authors.lastname: Bouvry
authors.forename: J M
authors.initials: JM
authors.lastname: Gillbro
authors.forename: A V
authors.initials: AV
authors.lastname: Rawlings
authors.forename: A
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Laloeuf
mesh_terms: D000293:Adolescent; D000328:Adult; D002626:Chemistry, Pharmaceutical; D004353:Drug Evaluation, Preclinical; D005145:Face; D005260:Female; D006801:Humans; D012867:Skin; D012880:Skin Pigmentation; D013229:Stearic Acids / Q000008:administration & dosage*; D055815:Young Adult
chemical_list: C114874:5-octadecenoic acid; D013229:Stearic Acids