title: Impact of emollients on the spreading properties of cosmetic products: a combined sensory and instrumental characterization.
abstract: This study deals with the impact of emollients on the spreading properties of cosmetic products using a combined sensory-instrumental approach. To that purpose, three esters and one silicone were selected and incorporated separately into an oil phase. Different cosmetic o/w emulsions were then prepared with these different oil phases. Both of them were analyzed by instrumental techniques and in vivo sensory analyses. A significant effect of the emollient used was established in emulsions and in oil phases as well. Concerning emulsions, results reveal a clear correlation between in vivo spreading evaluation and friction coefficient parameters measured by texture analyzer, despite a fairly low correlation coefficient (Pearson coefficient=-0.78). Concerning oil phases, characterization of spreading was done by monitoring the contact angle relaxation of a drop of solution after deposition on a flat PMMA surface whereas sensory procedure was based on spontaneous spreading of oil phases onto the skin. Finally, good correlations between in vivo sensory analysis and instrumental measurements of both oils and emulsions were found, thus promising the possible development of predictive tools to evaluate spreadability.
authors.affiliation: Université du Havre, URCOM, EA 3221, FR CNRS 3038, 25 rue Philippe Lebon, B.P. 540, 76058 Le Havre cedex, France.
authors.forename: Géraldine
authors.initials: G
authors.lastname: Savary
authors.forename: Michel
authors.initials: M
authors.lastname: Grisel
authors.forename: Céline
authors.initials: C
authors.lastname: Picard
mesh_terms: D003358:Cosmetics / Q000737:chemistry*; D004643:Emollients / Q000737:chemistry*; D004655:Emulsions / Q000737:chemistry*; D004952:Esters / Q000737:chemistry; D012828:Silicones / Q000737:chemistry; D014783:Viscosity
chemical_list: D003358:Cosmetics; D004643:Emollients; D004655:Emulsions; D004952:Esters; D012828:Silicones