Skill transfer, affordances and dexterity in different climbing environments.
This study explored how skills in one region of a perceptual-motor landscape of performance, created in part by previous experience in rock climbing, can shape those that emerge in another region (ice climbing). Ten novices in rock climbing and five intermediate rock climbers were observed climbing an icefall. Locations of right and left ice tools and crampons were videotaped from a frontal camera. Inter-individual variability of upper and lower limb couplings and types of action regarding icefall properties were assessed by cluster hierarchical analysis, distinguishing three clusters. Pelvis vertical displacement, duration and number of pelvis pauses were also analyzed. Experienced rock climbers were grouped in the same cluster and showed the highest range and variability of limb angular locations and coordination patterns, the highest vertical displacement and the shortest pelvis plateaux durations. Non-fluent climbers (clusters 2 and 3) showed low range and variability of limb angular locations and coordination patterns. In particular, climbers of cluster 3 exhibited the lowest vertical displacement, the longest plateaux durations and the greatest ratio between tool swinging and definitive anchorage. Our results exemplified the positive influence of skills in rock climbing on ice climbing performance, facilitated by the detection of affordances from environmental properties.
Centre d'Etude des Transformations des Activités Physiques et Sportives (CETAPS) - EA 3832, University of Rouen, Faculty of Sports Sciences, France. Electronic address: ludovic.seifert@univ-rouen.fr.
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Seifert
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Wattebled
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L'hermette
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Bideault
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Herault
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Davids
D000328:Adult; D001076:Aptitude; D054874:Athletic Performance; D001696:Biomechanical Phenomena; D005260:Female; D006112:Gravitation; D006801:Humans; D007053:Ice; D008297:Male; D009048:Motor Skills; D009051:Mountaineering / Q000523:psychology*; D009949:Orientation; D004856:Postural Balance; D011214:Practice, Psychological; D011434:Proprioception; D011597:Psychomotor Performance; D013499:Surface Properties; D014163:Transfer, Psychology; D055815:Young Adult
D007053:Ice
2320; 2330; 3720; Affordances; Dynamical systems; Inter-limb coordination; Skill