title: Determination of physicochemical properties of delipidized hair.
abstract: Using various physicochemical methods of analysis, we examined human hair in its virgin and delipidized state. Free lipids were removed by a solvent extraction technique (covalently bound lipids were not removed) using a series of solvents with varying polarity. We analyzed the surface properties of hair by conducting mechanical combing and dynamic contact angle analysis. In addition, we used inverse gas chromatography surface energy analysis to explore the chemical composition of the hair surface based on interactions of various nonpolar and polar probes with biological molecules residing on the hair surface. Further, we investigated the importance that free lipids play in the internal structural properties of hair using dynamic scanning calorimetry and tensile strength measurements. The microstructure of the hair surface was probed by atomic force microscopy, whereas the lipid content of hair's morphological components was determined by infrared spectroscopic imaging. We also monitored the water management properties of virgin and delipidized hair by dynamic vapor sorption, which yielded unique water sorption isotherms for each hair type. Using all these techniques, differences were found in the chemical composition and physical behavior of virgin and delipidized hair. To better understand the influence of hair lipid composition on hair styling treatments, we conducted mechanical analyses of hair shaped into omega loops to determine the stiffness, elasticity, and flexibility of hair-polymer assemblies. Although there were no discernible differences between untreated virgin and delipidized hair, in terms of stiffness and elasticity, we found that treatment with hair styling agents produced different effects depending on the hair type used. Likewise, streaming potential measurements were carried out to monitor the binding capacity of rinse-off treatments on virgin and delipidized hair. Using this technique, we monitored the surface potential of hair and found significant differences in the binding behavior of cationic polymers and surfactants (polyquaternium-55 and quaternium-26) on both hair types.
authors.affiliation: Materials Science Department, Corporate R&D, Ashland Specialty Ingredients, Wayne, NJ 07470.
authors.forename: Roger L
authors.initials: RL
authors.lastname: McMullen
authors.forename: Donna
authors.initials: D
authors.lastname: Laura
authors.forename: Susan
authors.initials: S
authors.lastname: Chen
authors.forename: Donald
authors.initials: D
authors.lastname: Koelmel
authors.forename: Guojin
authors.initials: G
authors.lastname: Zhang
authors.forename: Timothy
authors.initials: T
authors.lastname: Gillece
mesh_terms: D002151:Calorimetry; D002849:Chromatography, Gas; D004548:Elasticity; D006197:Hair / Q000737:chemistry* / Q000187:drug effects; D006203:Hair Preparations / Q000494:pharmacology; D006801:Humans; D057927:Hydrophobic and Hydrophilic Interactions; D008055:Lipids / Q000737:chemistry*; D018625:Microscopy, Atomic Force; D000644:Quaternary Ammonium Compounds / Q000494:pharmacology; D052616:Solid Phase Extraction; D012997:Solvents; D017550:Spectroscopy, Fourier Transform Infrared; D013499:Surface Properties; D013718:Tensile Strength; D014867:Water / Q000737:chemistry
chemical_list: D006203:Hair Preparations; D008055:Lipids; D000644:Quaternary Ammonium Compounds; D012997:Solvents; D014867:Water