title: Characterization of suspected illegal skin whitening cosmetics.
abstract: An important group of suspected illegal cosmetics consists of skin bleaching products, which are usually applied to the skin of the face, hands and décolleté for local depigmentation of hyper pigmented regions or more importantly, for a generalized reduction of the skin tone. These cosmetic products are suspected to contain illegal active substances that may provoke as well local as systemic toxic effects, being the reason for their banning from the EU market. In that respect, illegal and restricted substances in cosmetics, known to have bleaching properties, are in particular hydroquinone, tretinoin and corticosteroids. From a legislative point of view, all cosmetic products containing a prohibited whitening agent are illegal and must be taken off the EU market. A newly developed screening method using ultra high performance liquid chromatography-time off flight-mass spectrometry allows routine analysis of suspected products. 163 suspected skin whitening cosmetics, collected by Belgian inspectors at high risk sites such as airports and so-called ethnic cosmetic shops, were analyzed and 59% were classified as illegal. The whitening agents mostly detected were clobetasol propionate and hydroquinone, which represent a serious health risk when repeatedly and abundantly applied to the skin.
authors: Division of Food, Medicines and Consumer Safety, Section Medicinal Products, Scientific Institute of Public Health (IPH), Juliette Wytsmanstraat 14, 1050 Brussels, Belgium; Department of Toxicology, Dermato-Cosmetology and Pharmacognosy, Centre for Pharmaceutical Research (CePhar), Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB), Laarbeeklaan 103, 1090 Brussels, Belgium.
authors: B
authors: B
authors: Desmedt
authors: Division of Food, Medicines and Consumer Safety, Section Consumer Safety, Scientific Institute of Public Health (IPH), Juliette Wytsmanstraat 14, 1050 Brussels, Belgium.
authors: E
authors: E
authors: Van Hoeck
authors: Department of Toxicology, Dermato-Cosmetology and Pharmacognosy, Centre for Pharmaceutical Research (CePhar), Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB), Laarbeeklaan 103, 1090 Brussels, Belgium.
authors: V
authors: V
authors: Rogiers
authors: Division of Food, Medicines and Consumer Safety, Section Medicinal Products, Scientific Institute of Public Health (IPH), Juliette Wytsmanstraat 14, 1050 Brussels, Belgium.
authors: P
authors: P
authors: Courselle
authors: Division of Food, Medicines and Consumer Safety, Section Medicinal Products, Scientific Institute of Public Health (IPH), Juliette Wytsmanstraat 14, 1050 Brussels, Belgium.
authors: J O
authors: JO
authors: De Beer
authors: Department of Toxicology, Dermato-Cosmetology and Pharmacognosy, Centre for Pharmaceutical Research (CePhar), Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB), Laarbeeklaan 103, 1090 Brussels, Belgium.
authors: K
authors: K
authors: De Paepe
authors: Division of Food, Medicines and Consumer Safety, Section Medicinal Products, Scientific Institute of Public Health (IPH), Juliette Wytsmanstraat 14, 1050 Brussels, Belgium. Electronic address: Eric.Deconinck@wiv-isp.be.
authors: E
authors: E
authors: Deconinck
mesh_terms: D001530:Belgium; D002851:Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid / Q000379:methods*; D002990:Clobetasol / Q000009:adverse effects / Q000032:analysis / Q000737:chemistry; D003358:Cosmetics / Q000009:adverse effects / Q000032:analysis* / Q000737:chemistry; D003879:Dermatologic Agents / Q000009:adverse effects / Q000032:analysis* / Q000737:chemistry; D005062:European Union; D005938:Glucocorticoids / Q000009:adverse effects / Q000032:analysis / Q000737:chemistry; D006801:Humans; D006873:Hydroquinones / Q000009:adverse effects / Q000032:analysis / Q000737:chemistry; D007880:Legislation, Drug; D013058:Mass Spectrometry / Q000379:methods; D062327:Skin Lightening Preparations / Q000009:adverse effects / Q000032:analysis* / Q000737:chemistry; D014212:Tretinoin / Q000009:adverse effects / Q000032:analysis / Q000737:chemistry
chemical_list: D003358:Cosmetics; D003879:Dermatologic Agents; D005938:Glucocorticoids; D006873:Hydroquinones; D062327:Skin Lightening Preparations; D014212:Tretinoin; D002990:Clobetasol; C031927:hydroquinone
keywords: Bleaching; Corticosteroids; Hydroquinone; Lightening; ToF