title: Climbing skill and complexity of climbing wall design: assessment of jerk as a novel indicator of performance fluency.
abstract: This study investigated a new performance indicator to assess climbing fluency (smoothness of the hip trajectory and orientation of a climber using normalized jerk coefficients) to explore effects of practice and hold design on performance. Eight experienced climbers completed four repetitions of two, 10-m high routes with similar difficulty levels, but varying in hold graspability (holds with one edge vs holds with two edges). An inertial measurement unit was attached to the hips of each climber to collect 3D acceleration and 3D orientation data to compute jerk coefficients. Results showed high correlations (r = .99, P < .05) between the normalized jerk coefficient of hip trajectory and orientation. Results showed higher normalized jerk coefficients for the route with two graspable edges, perhaps due to more complex route finding and action regulation behaviors. This effect decreased with practice. Jerk coefficient of hip trajectory and orientation could be a useful indicator of climbing fluency for coaches as its computation takes into account both spatial and temporal parameters (ie, changes in both climbing trajectory and time to travel this trajectory).
authors.affiliation: CETAPS - EA 3832, Faculty of Sport Sciences, University of Rouen, France.
authors.forename: Ludovic
authors.initials: L
authors.lastname: Seifert
authors.forename: Dominic
authors.initials: D
authors.lastname: Orth
authors.forename: Jérémie
authors.initials: J
authors.lastname: Boulanger
authors.forename: Vladislavs
authors.initials: V
authors.lastname: Dovgalecs
authors.forename: Romain
authors.initials: R
authors.lastname: Hérault
authors.forename: Keith
authors.initials: K
authors.lastname: Davids
mesh_terms: D000054:Acceleration; D001696:Biomechanical Phenomena; D006621:Hip Joint / Q000502:physiology*; D006801:Humans; D008297:Male; D009068:Movement / Q000502:physiology*; D013177:Sports / Q000502:physiology*; D055815:Young Adult