title: Experimental and numerical studies on wave breaking characteristics over a fringing reef under monochromatic wave conditions.
abstract: Fringing reefs play an important role in protecting the coastal area by inducing wave breaking and wave energy dissipation. However, modeling of wave transformation and energy dissipation on this topography is still difficult due to the unique structure. In the present study, two-dimensional laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate the cross-shore variations of wave transformation, setup, and breaking phenomena over an idealized fringing reef with the 1/40 reef slope and to verify the Boussinesq model under monochromatic wave conditions. One-layer and two-layer model configurations of the Boussinesq model were used to figure out the model capability. Both models predicted well (r (2) > 0.8) the cross-shore variation of the wave heights, crests, troughs, and setups when the nonlinearity is not too high (A 0/h 0 < 0.07 in this study). However, as the wave nonlinearity and steepness increase, the one-layer model showed problems in prediction and stability due to the error on the vertical profile of fluid velocity. The results in this study revealed that one-layer model is not suitable in the highly nonlinear wave condition over a fringing reef bathymetry. This data set can contribute to the numerical model verification.
authors.affiliation: Department of Marine and Civil Engineering, Chonnam National University, 50 Daehak-ro, Yeosu, Jeonnam 500-749, Republic of Korea.
authors.forename: Jong-In
authors.identifier: 0000-0002-0150-2956
authors.initials: JI
authors.lastname: Lee
authors.affiliation: Experimental Center for Coastal & Harbor Engineering, Chonnam National University, 50 Daehak-ro, Yeosu, Jeonnam 500-749, Republic of Korea.
authors.forename: Sungwon
authors.identifier: 0000-0002-9888-5059
authors.initials: S
authors.lastname: Shin
authors.affiliation: River and Coastal Research Division, Korea Institute of Construction Technology, Goyang-si, Gyeonggi-do 411-712, Republic of Korea.
authors.forename: Young-Taek
authors.identifier: 0000-0003-4477-4633
authors.initials: YT
authors.lastname: Kim
mesh_terms: D000465:Algorithms; D000818:Animals; D037421:Anthozoa / Q000502:physiology*; D003247:Conservation of Natural Resources; D057894:Coral Reefs; D057446:Hydrodynamics; D008962:Models, Theoretical; D009792:Oceans and Seas; D012623:Seawater; D014872:Water Movements