title: In vivo and ex vivo evaluation of cosmetic properties of seedcakes.
abstract: The seedcakes are a potential source of natural bioactive substances: antioxidants, protein, and carbohydrates. Thus, they may scavenge free radicals and have an effect on the stratum corneum hydration and epidermal barrier function. The aim of the study was to evaluate the in vivo and ex vivo properties of emulsions with the seedcake extracts using the pH meter, corneometer, tewameter, methyl nicotinate model of micro-inflammation in human skin, and tape stripping of the stratum corneum. The in vivo and ex vivo studies showed that the emulsions with Oenothera biennis, Borago officinalis, and Nigella sativa seedcake extracts have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. The 6-week topical application of the emulsions with the B. officinalis and N. sativa seedcakes significantly reduced skin irritation and influenced the improvement of the skin hydration and epidermal barrier function compared with placebo. The seedcakes due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities have potential application in anti-aging, moisturizing, mitigating, and protective cosmetics.
authors.affiliation: Department of Cosmetology, Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care , Warsaw , Poland.
authors.forename: Anna
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Ratz-Łyko
authors.forename: Jacek
authors.initials: J
authors.lastname: Arct
authors.forename: Katarzyna
authors.initials: K
authors.lastname: Pytkowska
authors.forename: Sławomir
authors.initials: S
authors.lastname: Majewski
mesh_terms: D000293:Adolescent; D000328:Adult; D000893:Anti-Inflammatory Agents / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000494:pharmacology*; D000975:Antioxidants / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000494:pharmacology*; D029683:Borago; D004655:Emulsions; D004817:Epidermis / Q000187:drug effects; D005260:Female; D006801:Humans; D006863:Hydrogen-Ion Concentration; D008297:Male; D008875:Middle Aged; D031881:Nigella sativa; D031665:Oenothera biennis; D010936:Plant Extracts / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000494:pharmacology*; D012639:Seeds; D012867:Skin / Q000187:drug effects*; D014867:Water / Q000378:metabolism; D055815:Young Adult
chemical_list: D000893:Anti-Inflammatory Agents; D000975:Antioxidants; D004655:Emulsions; D010936:Plant Extracts; D014867:Water
keywords: anti-inflammatory activity; antioxidant capacity; epidermal barrier function; seedcake extracts; skin hydration