title: The effect of climbing ability and slope inclination on vertical foot loading using a novel force sensor instrumentation system.
abstract: The aim of the study was to assess the effects of climbing ability and slope inclination on vertical loading both in terms the forces involved and physiological responses. Five novice and six intermediate female climbers completed a climbing route at three slope inclinations (85°, 90°, and 98°). The vertical loading during the climb was assessed by force-time integral using a Novel Pedar-X insole and physiological responses via oxygen uptake and heart rate. The novice climbers had a significantly lower (p < 0.05) vertical loading on foot holds and higher oxygen uptake and heart rate compared to intermediate climbers. A significant negative correlation was identified between the force-time integral and oxygen uptake (R = -0.72), and with heart rate (R = -0.64), respectively. The time-force integral decreased across the ascents with increasing slope inclination (p < 0.001). The results indicate that more advanced ability climbers make greater use of foot holds, with associated lowering in physiological response (oxygen uptake and heart rate) across all slope inclinations.
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic.
authors.forename: Jiří
authors.initials: J
authors.lastname: Baláš
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic.
authors.forename: Michaela
authors.initials: M
authors.lastname: Panáčková
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Science, Humanities and Education, Technical University, Liberec, Czech Republic.
authors.forename: Soňa
authors.initials: S
authors.lastname: Jandová
authors.affiliation: School of Sport and Exercise, Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand.
authors.forename: Andrew J
authors.initials: AJ
authors.lastname: Martin
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic.
authors.forename: Barbora
authors.initials: B
authors.lastname: Strejcová
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Physical Education and Sport, Charles University, Prague, Czech Republic.
authors.forename: Ladislav
authors.initials: L
authors.lastname: Vomáčko
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Science, Humanities and Education, Technical University, Liberec, Czech Republic.
authors.forename: Jan
authors.initials: J
authors.lastname: Charousek
authors.affiliation: School of Sport and Exercise, Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand.
authors.forename: Darryl J
authors.initials: DJ
authors.lastname: Cochrane
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Environment, Society and Design, University of Lincoln, Lincoln, New Zealand.
authors.forename: Mike
authors.initials: M
authors.lastname: Hamlin
authors.affiliation: Department of Life Sciences, University of Derby, Derby, UK. ; School of Sport and Physical Education, University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand.
authors.forename: Nick
authors.initials: N
authors.lastname: Draper
keywords: Pedar X insole; force sensor; indoor climbing; oxygen uptake; vertical force