An oil-soluble extract of Rubus idaeus cells enhances hydration and water homeostasis in skin cells.
OBJECTIVE
Raspberry plants, belonging to the species of Rubus idaeus, are known for their excellent therapeutic properties as they are particularly rich in compounds with strong antioxidant activity, which promote health and well-being of human cells. Besides their high content of phenolic compounds, Rubus plants are rich in oil-soluble compounds, which are also primary components of the hydrolipidic film barrier of the skin. As plant cell cultures represented a valuable system to produce interesting compounds and ingredients for cosmetic applications, we developed liquid suspension cultures from Rubus idaeus leaves and used them to obtain an active ingredient aimed at improving hydration and moisturization capacity in the skin.


METHODS
Rubus idaeus cells, grown in the laboratory under sterile and controlled conditions as liquid suspension cultures, were processed to obtain an oil-soluble (liposoluble) extract, containing phenolic compounds and a wide range of fatty acids. The extract was tested on cultured keratinocytes and fibroblasts and then on the skin in vivo, to assess its cosmetic activities.


RESULTS
When tested on skin cell cultures, the extract induced the genes responsible for skin hydration, such as aquaporin 3, filaggrin, involucrin and hyaluronic acid synthase, and stimulated the expression and the activity of the enzyme glucocerebrosidase, involved in ceramide production. Moreover, the liposoluble extract increased the synthesis of the extracellular matrix components in cultured fibroblasts and showed a remarkable skin-hydrating capacity when tested on human skin in vivo.


CONCLUSIONS
Thanks to these activities, the Rubus idaeus liposoluble extract has several potential applications in skin care cosmetics: it can be used as hydrating and moisturizing ingredient in face and body lotions, and as anti-ageing product in face creams specifically designed to fight wrinkle formation.
Arterra Bioscience srl, via B. Brin 69, Napoli, Italy.
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Tito
Arterra Bioscience srl, via B. Brin 69, Napoli, Italy.
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Bimonte
Arterra Bioscience srl, via B. Brin 69, Napoli, Italy.
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Carola
Arterra Bioscience srl, via B. Brin 69, Napoli, Italy.
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De Lucia
Arterra Bioscience srl, via B. Brin 69, Napoli, Italy.
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Barbulova
Arterra Bioscience srl, via B. Brin 69, Napoli, Italy.
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Tortora
Arterra Bioscience srl, via B. Brin 69, Napoli, Italy.|VitaLab srl, via B. Brin 69, Napoli, Italy.
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Colucci
Arterra Bioscience srl, via B. Brin 69, Napoli, Italy.|VitaLab srl, via B. Brin 69, Napoli, Italy.
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Apone
D002460:Cell Line; D016326:Extracellular Matrix Proteins / Q000096:biosynthesis; D000091344:Filaggrin Proteins; D006706:Homeostasis; D006801:Humans; D006820:Hyaluronic Acid / Q000378:metabolism; D050356:Lipid Metabolism; D009821:Oils / Q000737:chemistry*; D010936:Plant Extracts / Q000494:pharmacology*; D065856:Rubus / Q000737:chemistry*; D012867:Skin / Q000187:drug effects* / Q000378:metabolism; D012995:Solubility; D014867:Water / Q000378:metabolism*
D016326:Extracellular Matrix Proteins; C000717249:FLG protein, human; D000091344:Filaggrin Proteins; D009821:Oils; D010936:Plant Extracts; D014867:Water; D006820:Hyaluronic Acid
Rubus idaeus; cell cultures; chemical analysis; hydration; in vivo test; skin barrier