title: Novel analytical method to measure formaldehyde release from heated hair straightening cosmetic products: Impact on risk assessment.
abstract: Hair straightening cosmetic products may contain formaldehyde (FA). In Europe, FA is permitted for use in personal care products at concentrations ⩽ 0.2g/100g. According to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel products are safe when formalin (a 37% saturated solution of FA in water) concentration does not exceed 0.2g/100g (0.074 g/100g calculated as FA). The official method of reference does not discriminate between "free" FA and FA released into the air after heating FA donors. The method presented here captures and collects the FA released into the air from heated cosmetic products by derivatization with 2,4-dinitrophenylhydrazine and final analysis by UPLC/DAD instrument. Reliable data in terms of linearity, recovery, repeatability and sensitivity are obtained. On a total of 72 market cosmetic products analyzed, 42% showed FA concentrations very close to or above the threshold value (0.074 g/100g calculated as FA) suggested by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review committee, whereas 11 products, negative using the official method of reference, were close to or above the threshold value (0.074 g/100g calculated as FA). This may pose a health problem for occasional users and professional hair stylists.
authors.affiliation: Section of Risk Assessment, Dipartimento di Scienze Farmacologiche e Biomolecolari, University of Milan, via Balzaretti 9, 20133 Milan, Italy. Electronic address: corrado.galli@unimi.it.
authors.forename: Corrado Lodovico
authors.initials: CL
authors.lastname: Galli
authors.affiliation: R&D Department Chelab-Silliker a Mérieux Nutriscience Company, via Fratta 25, 31023 Resana, Italy. Electronic address: federico.bettin@mxns.com.
authors.forename: Federico
authors.initials: F
authors.lastname: Bettin
authors.affiliation: R&D Department Chelab-Silliker a Mérieux Nutriscience Company, via Fratta 25, 31023 Resana, Italy. Electronic address: pierre.metra@mxns.com.
authors.forename: Pierre
authors.initials: P
authors.lastname: Metra
authors.affiliation: Section of Risk Assessment, Dipartimento di Scienze Farmacologiche e Biomolecolari, University of Milan, via Balzaretti 9, 20133 Milan, Italy.
authors.forename: Paola
authors.initials: P
authors.lastname: Fidente
authors.affiliation: R&D Department Chelab-Silliker a Mérieux Nutriscience Company, via Fratta 25, 31023 Resana, Italy. Electronic address: emiliano.de.dominicis@mxns.com.
authors.forename: Emiliano
authors.initials: E
authors.lastname: De Dominicis
authors.affiliation: Section of Risk Assessment, Dipartimento di Scienze Farmacologiche e Biomolecolari, University of Milan, via Balzaretti 9, 20133 Milan, Italy.
authors.forename: Marina
authors.initials: M
authors.lastname: Marinovich
mesh_terms: D000393:Air Pollutants / Q000032:analysis*; D062067:Chemical Safety; D003257:Consumer Product Safety; D003358:Cosmetics / Q000032:analysis*; D005557:Formaldehyde / Q000032:analysis*; D006197:Hair; D006358:Hot Temperature; D006801:Humans; D019570:Inhalation Exposure / Q000032:analysis; D018570:Risk Assessment
chemical_list: D000393:Air Pollutants; D003358:Cosmetics; D005557:Formaldehyde
keywords: Analytical method; Cosmetic safety; Formaldehyde; Fraud control; Hair smoothing products