title: Pre-clinical formulation screening, development and stability of acetyl aspartic acid for cosmetic application.
abstract: BACKGROUND
  Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding connectivity mapping (Cmap). Using an in silico and in vitro approach, A-A-A was found increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal expression of MMP making this compound a potential active ingredient for cosmetic application.
  
  
  OBJECTIVE
  To determine the conditions to successfully formulate A-A-A for skin delivery investigation and in vivo clinical assessment by the systematic approach of pre-formulation testing of the active, screening of formulation type on active delivery and stability evaluations.
  
  
  METHODS
  Analytical evaluation of A-A-A was undertaken using LC-MS ESI method. Formulation stability was evaluated using Brookfield viscometer, pH analysis, optical microscopy and organoleptic evaluations.
  
  
  RESULTS
  Analytical evaluation of A-A-A shows that pH significantly impacts chemical stability of the molecule. A-A-A containing formulae show minimal differences to vehicle product throughout the testing.
  
  
  CONCLUSIONS
  A-A-A is an active that can be successfully formulated in a cosmetic o/w emulsion within defined pH considerations.
authors.affiliation: Oriflame Research & Development Ltd, Bray, Ireland.|Oriflame Skin Research Institute AB, Stockholm, Sweden.
authors.forename: K
authors.initials: K
authors.lastname: Cattley
authors.affiliation: Oriflame Skin Research Institute AB, Stockholm, Sweden.
authors.forename: L
authors.initials: L
authors.lastname: Duracher
authors.affiliation: Oriflame Research & Development Ltd, Bray, Ireland.
authors.forename: P
authors.initials: P
authors.lastname: Camattari
authors.affiliation: Oriflame Skin Research Institute AB, Stockholm, Sweden.
authors.forename: A
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Mavon
authors.affiliation: Oriflame Research & Development Ltd, Bray, Ireland.
authors.forename: S
authors.initials: S
authors.lastname: Grooby
mesh_terms: D001224:Aspartic Acid / Q000633:toxicity*; D003358:Cosmetics; D004353:Drug Evaluation, Preclinical; D006863:Hydrogen-Ion Concentration
chemical_list: D003358:Cosmetics; D001224:Aspartic Acid
keywords: LC-MS; chemical analysis; emulsions; formulation stability