title: Surfactants have multi-fold effects on skin barrier function.
abstract: BACKGROUND
  The stratum corneum (SC) is responsible for the barrier properties of the skin and the role of intercorneocyte skin lipids, particularly their structural organization, in controlling SC permeability is acknowledged. Upon contacting the skin, surfactants interact with the SC components leading to barrier damage.
  
  
  OBJECTIVE
  To improve knowledge of the effect of several classes of surfactant on skin barrier function at three different levels.
  
  
  METHODS
  The influence of treatments of human skin explants with six non-ionic and four ionic surfactant solutions on the physicochemical properties of skin was investigated. Skin surface wettability and polarity were assessed through contact angle measurements. Infrared spectroscopy allowed monitoring the SC lipid organization. The lipid extraction potency of surfactants was evaluated thanks to HPLC-ELSD assays.
  
  
  RESULTS
  One anionic and one cationic surfactant increased the skin polarity by removing the sebaceous and epidermal lipids and by disturbing the organization of the lipid matrix. Another cationic surfactant displayed a detergency effect without disturbing the skin barrier. Several non-ionic surfactants disturbed the lipid matrix organization and modified the skin wettability without any extraction of the skin lipids. Finally two non-ionic surfactants did not show any effect on the investigated parameters or on the skin barrier.
  
  
  CONCLUSIONS
  The polarity, the organization of the lipid matrix and the lipid composition of the skin allowed describing finely how surfactants can interact with the skin and disturb the skin barrier function.
authors.affiliation: Université de Lyon F-69008, Lyon, France; Laboratoire de Dermopharmacie et Cosmétologie, Laboratoire d'Automatique et de Génie des Procédés (LAGEP), UMR CNRS 5007, Faculté de Pharmacie, 8, avenue Rockefeller, 69373 Lyon cedex 08, France, Johnson & Johnson Santé Beauté France, Campus de Maigremont, 27100 Val de Reuil, France.
authors.forename: Emmanuelle
authors.initials: E
authors.lastname: Lemery
authors.affiliation: Université de Lyon F-69008, Lyon, France; Laboratoire de Dermopharmacie et Cosmétologie, Laboratoire d'Automatique et de Génie des Procédés (LAGEP), UMR CNRS 5007, Faculté de Pharmacie, 8, avenue Rockefeller, 69373 Lyon cedex 08, France.
authors.forename: Stéphanie
authors.initials: S
authors.lastname: Briançon
authors.affiliation: Université de Lyon F-69008, Lyon, France; Laboratoire de Dermopharmacie et Cosmétologie, Laboratoire d'Automatique et de Génie des Procédés (LAGEP), UMR CNRS 5007, Faculté de Pharmacie, 8, avenue Rockefeller, 69373 Lyon cedex 08, France.
authors.forename: Yves
authors.initials: Y
authors.lastname: Chevalier
authors.affiliation: Johnson & Johnson Santé Beauté France, Campus de Maigremont, 27100 Val de Reuil, France.
authors.forename: Thierry
authors.initials: T
authors.lastname: Oddos
authors.affiliation: Johnson & Johnson Santé Beauté France, Campus de Maigremont, 27100 Val de Reuil, France.
authors.forename: Annie
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Gohier
authors.affiliation: Université de Lyon, Université Lyon 1, CPE Lyon, CNRS UMR 5265, Laboratoire de Chimie Catalyse Polymères et Procédés (C2P2), F-69616, Villeurbanne (France).
authors.forename: Olivier
authors.initials: O
authors.lastname: Boyron
authors.affiliation: Université de Lyon F-69008, Lyon, France; Laboratoire de Dermopharmacie et Cosmétologie, Laboratoire d'Automatique et de Génie des Procédés (LAGEP), UMR CNRS 5007, Faculté de Pharmacie, 8, avenue Rockefeller, 69373 Lyon cedex 08, France.
authors.forename: Marie-Alexandrine
authors.initials: MA
authors.lastname: Bolzinger
mesh_terms: D001706:Biopsy / Q000379:methods; D006801:Humans; D010539:Permeability / Q000187:drug effects*; D012494:Sampling Studies; D012680:Sensitivity and Specificity; D012867:Skin / Q000187:drug effects*; D012869:Skin Absorption / Q000187:drug effects*; D013501:Surface-Active Agents / Q000493:pharmacokinetics* / Q000494:pharmacology; D046509:Tissue Culture Techniques
chemical_list: D013501:Surface-Active Agents
keywords: contact angle; infrared spectroscopy; lipid extraction; skin barrier function; surfactants