title: Pinhão starch and coat extract as new natural cosmetic ingredients: Topical formulation stability and sensory analysis.
abstract: The objective of this study was to use pinhão derivatives, starch and coat extract, as new natural ingredients to develop cosmetic formulations. Two types of formulation, gel and emulgel, and their controls were developed. The formulations were characterized by stability studies using thermal stress. The parameters analyzed were resistance to centrifugation, pH, spreadability, rheology, content of phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity. Sensory analysis was also performed to verify the acceptability of the ingredients to potential consumers. The pH was kept the same after heating/freezing cycles for all formulations, and the formulations showed stability by resistance to centrifugation. The formulations did not induce any skin irritation or cutaneous pH alteration. The pinhão starch addition improved spreadability stability and increased viscosity when compared with control formulations. The pinhão coat extract used in these formulations is a good source of phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity. Moreover, sensory analysis indicates that the emulgel formulation is the best vehicle for adding pinhão starch and pinhão coat extract.
authors.affiliation: Chemical Engineering Department, Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul (UFRGS), Rua Engenheiro Luiz Englert s/n, Porto Alegre, RS 90040-040, Brazil. Electronic address: redaudt@gmail.com.
authors.forename: Renata Moschini
authors.initials: RM
authors.lastname: Daudt
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Pharmacy, UFRGS, Avenida Ipiranga, 2572, Porto Alegre, RS 90610-000, Brazil.
authors.forename: Patrícia Inês
authors.initials: PI
authors.lastname: Back
authors.affiliation: Chemical Engineering Department, Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul (UFRGS), Rua Engenheiro Luiz Englert s/n, Porto Alegre, RS 90040-040, Brazil.
authors.forename: Nilo Sérgio Medeiros
authors.initials: NS
authors.lastname: Cardozo
authors.affiliation: Chemical Engineering Department, Federal University of Rio Grande do Sul (UFRGS), Rua Engenheiro Luiz Englert s/n, Porto Alegre, RS 90040-040, Brazil.
authors.forename: Ligia Damasceno Ferreira
authors.initials: LD
authors.lastname: Marczak
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Pharmacy, UFRGS, Avenida Ipiranga, 2572, Porto Alegre, RS 90610-000, Brazil.
authors.forename: Irene Clemes
authors.initials: IC
authors.lastname: Külkamp-Guerreiro
mesh_terms: D001688:Biological Products / Q000737:chemistry*; D002626:Chemistry, Pharmaceutical; D003358:Cosmetics / Q000737:chemistry*; D004355:Drug Stability; D006863:Hydrogen-Ion Concentration; D028223:Pinus / Q000737:chemistry*; D012639:Seeds / Q000737:chemistry*; D013213:Starch / Q000737:chemistry*; D013649:Taste; D013696:Temperature
chemical_list: D001688:Biological Products; D003358:Cosmetics; D013213:Starch
keywords: Characterization; Cosmetic formulation; Pinhão; Sensory analysis; Stability