title: Effect of cosmetic matrices on the release and odour profiles of the supercritical CO2 extract of Origanum majorana L.
abstract: OBJECTIVE
  In this study, the effect of different cosmetic matrices on the release profile and odour intensity of the fragrance O. majorana was investigated for the first time.
  
  
  METHODS
  The fragrance compounds of O. majorana were extracted by supercritical fluid extraction using carbon dioxide (SFE-CO2 ) at 40°C and two operating pressures (8.5 and 10 MPa), and their chemical profiles were assessed by gas chromatography with flame ionization detector coupled with mass spectrometry (GC-FID/MS). Lastly, the fragrance compounds were incorporated into three cosmetic matrices (glycerine, dipropylene glycol and skin lotion) to assess their release and odour profiles over time using dynamic headspace (DHS)/GC-FID/MS and Odour Value concept, respectively.
  
  
  RESULTS
  The SFE-CO2 enabled recovering extracts with the pleasant scent of the living plant, and the increment of pressure induced an increase on the extraction yield. GC-FID/MS analyses revealed that oxygen-containing monoterpenes was the principal group of components identified in both SFE-CO2 extracts. The fragrance compounds were more retained in dipropylene glycol, and the major deviations from the original odour intensity (control) were observed in the presence of dipropylene glycol and skin lotion.
  
  
  CONCLUSIONS
  The hydrophilic character of the cosmetic matrices strongly influenced the release of the fragrance compounds, thus affecting the odour profile of the studied mixtures.
authors.affiliation: Laboratório Associado LSRE-LCM, Faculdade de Engenharia, Universidade do Porto, Rua Dr. Roberto Frias s/n, 4200-465, Porto, Portugal.
authors.forename: P
authors.initials: P
authors.lastname: Costa
authors.affiliation: Laboratório Associado LSRE-LCM, Faculdade de Engenharia, Universidade do Porto, Rua Dr. Roberto Frias s/n, 4200-465, Porto, Portugal.
authors.forename: C V
authors.initials: CV
authors.lastname: Velasco
authors.affiliation: Laboratório Associado LSRE-LCM, Faculdade de Engenharia, Universidade do Porto, Rua Dr. Roberto Frias s/n, 4200-465, Porto, Portugal.
authors.forename: J M
authors.initials: JM
authors.lastname: Loureiro
authors.affiliation: Laboratório Associado LSRE-LCM, Faculdade de Engenharia, Universidade do Porto, Rua Dr. Roberto Frias s/n, 4200-465, Porto, Portugal.
authors.forename: A E
authors.initials: AE
authors.lastname: Rodrigues
mesh_terms: D002245:Carbon Dioxide / Q000737:chemistry*; D002849:Chromatography, Gas; D025924:Chromatography, Supercritical Fluid; D003358:Cosmetics; D013058:Mass Spectrometry; D009812:Odorants; D009822:Oils, Volatile / Q000737:chemistry; D031341:Origanum / Q000737:chemistry*; D010936:Plant Extracts / Q000737:chemistry*
chemical_list: D003358:Cosmetics; D009822:Oils, Volatile; D010936:Plant Extracts; D002245:Carbon Dioxide
keywords: cosmetic solvents; fragrance compounds; headspace profile; odour value concept; topical formulation