title: Recovery of rock climbing performance after surgical reconstruction of finger pulleys.
abstract: This study evaluated recovery of sport performance and correction of bowstringing after surgical reconstruction of closed finger pulley rupture in high-level rock climbers. A total of 38 patients treated with an extensor retinaculum graft were assessed. The mean follow-up time was 85 months, and 30 patients returned to their previous climbing level. The mean total active motion score was 96% of the opposite side. All patients had an excellent Buck-Gramcko score. There was no significant difference in grip strength and tip pinch strength in the crimp position between the injured side and the opposite side. A total of 31 patients were examined with ultrasonography. In 18, flexor bowstringing effects had returned to near-normal values. There was an association between rock climbing level recovery and the flexor bowstringing correction (odds ratio, 6.9; 95% confidence interval, 1.1-42.8). If flexor bowstringing was corrected, patients were more likely to regain their preinjury sport performance. The ultrasonography measurement was a useful tool for predicting functional recovery.
  
  
  METHODS
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authors.affiliation: Service de Chirurgie de la Main et des Brûlés, Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Grenoble, Grenoble, France mbouyer@chu-grenoble.fr.
authors.forename: M
authors.initials: M
authors.lastname: Bouyer
authors.affiliation: Service de Chirurgie de la Main et des Brûlés, Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Grenoble, Grenoble, France.
authors.forename: A
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Forli
authors.affiliation: Service de Chirurgie de la Main et des Brûlés, Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Grenoble, Grenoble, France.
authors.forename: A
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Semere
authors.affiliation: Service de Chirurgie de la Main et des Brûlés, Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Grenoble, Grenoble, France.
authors.forename: B J
authors.initials: BJ
authors.lastname: Chedal Bornu
authors.affiliation: Service de Chirurgie de la Main et des Brûlés, Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Grenoble, Grenoble, France.
authors.forename: D
authors.initials: D
authors.lastname: Corcella
authors.affiliation: Service de Chirurgie de la Main et des Brûlés, Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Grenoble, Grenoble, France.
authors.forename: F
authors.initials: F
authors.lastname: Moutet
mesh_terms: D000293:Adolescent; D000328:Adult; D005260:Female; D005383:Finger Injuries / Q000601:surgery*; D005500:Follow-Up Studies; D018737:Hand Strength; D006801:Humans; D008297:Male; D009051:Mountaineering; D000068958:Return to Sport; D013708:Tendon Injuries / Q000601:surgery*; D055815:Young Adult
keywords: Finger pulley rupture; bowstringing; climbing level; extensor retinaculum graft; finger pulley reconstruction; rock climbing