title: Dermatologic evaluation of cosmetic formulations containing Chrysanthemum indicum extract.
abstract: BACKGROUND
  Chrysanthemum indicum, an oriental medicinal plant, has been shown to display a variety of pharmacological activities including antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects.
  
  
  OBJECTIVE
  In this study, we evaluated the ability of C. indicum extracts to inhibit in vitro tyrosinase activity and the skin care effects of cosmetic formulations containing 0.5% C. indicum water extract in human volunteers.
  
  
  METHODS
  The formation of dopachrome from L -dopa by mushroom tyrosinase was observed after treatments with C. indicum extracts. The volunteers received placebo (no extract) or test (0.5% C. indicum water extract) cosmetic cream and applied it on their face three times a day for 6 weeks. Biophysical skin parameters were measured every 2 weeks.
  
  
  RESULTS
  Chrysanthemum indicum methanol and water extracts dose dependently inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity, and the effects of methanol extract were similar to those of kojic acid, a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor. Clinical evaluations revealed that application of cosmetic formulations containing C. indicum water extract time dependently reduced melanin levels over 6 weeks, whereas the placebo group showed no effect. No changes in moisture, elasticity, wrinkles, evenness, and pore size were observed in either group. HPLC-DAD-ESIMS analyses revealed that luteolin and acacetin-7-O-rutinoside are the major flavonoid compounds in C. indicum water extract.
  
  
  CONCLUSIONS
  These results suggest that C. indicum water extract could be applied as a natural skin-whitening agent for functional cosmetic uses, due to its melanin-reducing efficacy.
authors.affiliation: Department of Food and Biotechnology, Korea University, Sejong, Korea.
authors.forename: Keun Taek
authors.initials: KT
authors.lastname: Choi
authors.affiliation: Department of Food and Biotechnology, Korea University, Sejong, Korea.
authors.forename: Jun Ho
authors.initials: JH
authors.lastname: Kim
authors.affiliation: Department of Food and Biotechnology, Korea University, Sejong, Korea.
authors.forename: Hyung Taek
authors.initials: HT
authors.lastname: Cho
authors.affiliation: Department of Food Science and Nutrition, Hallym University, Chuncheon, Korea.
authors.forename: Soon Sung
authors.initials: SS
authors.lastname: Lim
authors.affiliation: Department of Medical Cosmetology, Chungcheong University, Chungbuk, Korea.
authors.forename: Sun Soon
authors.initials: SS
authors.lastname: Kwak
authors.affiliation: Department of Food and Biotechnology, Korea University, Sejong, Korea.
authors.forename: Young Jun
authors.initials: YJ
authors.lastname: Kim
mesh_terms: D000328:Adult; D031202:Chrysanthemum; D003358:Cosmetics / Q000494:pharmacology; D004339:Drug Compounding / Q000379:methods*; D005260:Female; D064368:Healthy Volunteers; D006801:Humans; D008543:Melanins / Q000378:metabolism; D008875:Middle Aged; D008517:Phytotherapy / Q000379:methods*; D010936:Plant Extracts / Q000494:pharmacology*; D012016:Reference Values; D012494:Sampling Studies; D012680:Sensitivity and Specificity; D062327:Skin Lightening Preparations / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000494:pharmacology*; D012880:Skin Pigmentation / Q000187:drug effects
chemical_list: D003358:Cosmetics; D008543:Melanins; D010936:Plant Extracts; D062327:Skin Lightening Preparations
keywords: Chrysanthemum indicum; cosmetic formulation; melanogenesis; skin physiology; tyrosinase