title: Overview of skin whitening agents with an insight into the illegal cosmetic market in Europe.
abstract: Lightening skin tone is an ancient and well-documented practice, and remains common practice among many cultures. Whitening agents such as corticosteroids, tretinoin and hydroquinone are medically applied to effectively lighten the skin tone of hyperpigmented lesions. However, when these agents are used cosmetically, they are associated with a variety of side-effect. Alternative agents, such as arbutin and its derivatives kojic acid and nicotinamide have been subsequently developed for cosmetic purposes. Unfortunately, some cosmetics contain whitening agents that are banned for use in cosmetic products. This article provides an overview of the mode of action and potential side-effects of cosmetic legal and illegal whitening agents, and the pattern of use of these types of products. Finally, an EU analysis of the health problems due to the presence of illegal products on the market is summarized.
authors.affiliation: Division of Food, Medicines and Consumer Safety, Section Medicinal Products, Scientific Institute of Public Health (IPH), Brussels, Belgium.|Department of Toxicology, Dermato-Cosmetology and Pharmacognosy, Centre for Pharmaceutical Research (CePhar), Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB), Brussels, Belgium.
authors.forename: B
authors.initials: B
authors.lastname: Desmedt
authors.affiliation: Division of Food, Medicines and Consumer Safety, Section Medicinal Products, Scientific Institute of Public Health (IPH), Brussels, Belgium.
authors.forename: P
authors.initials: P
authors.lastname: Courselle
authors.affiliation: Division of Food, Medicines and Consumer Safety, Section Medicinal Products, Scientific Institute of Public Health (IPH), Brussels, Belgium.
authors.forename: J O
authors.initials: JO
authors.lastname: De Beer
authors.affiliation: Department of Toxicology, Dermato-Cosmetology and Pharmacognosy, Centre for Pharmaceutical Research (CePhar), Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB), Brussels, Belgium.
authors.forename: V
authors.initials: V
authors.lastname: Rogiers
authors.affiliation: Department of Dermatology, Universitair Ziekenhuis Brussel, Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB), Brussels, Belgium.
authors.forename: M
authors.initials: M
authors.lastname: Grosber
authors.affiliation: Division of Food, Medicines and Consumer Safety, Section Medicinal Products, Scientific Institute of Public Health (IPH), Brussels, Belgium.
authors.forename: E
authors.initials: E
authors.lastname: Deconinck
authors.affiliation: Department of Toxicology, Dermato-Cosmetology and Pharmacognosy, Centre for Pharmaceutical Research (CePhar), Vrije Universiteit Brussel (VUB), Brussels, Belgium.
authors.forename: K
authors.initials: K
authors.lastname: De Paepe
mesh_terms: D003358:Cosmetics; D005060:Europe; D006801:Humans; D062327:Skin Lightening Preparations; D012880:Skin Pigmentation
chemical_list: D003358:Cosmetics; D062327:Skin Lightening Preparations