title: Identification of Polish cochineal (Porphyrophora polonica L.) in historical textiles by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with spectrophotometric and tandem mass spectrometric detection.
abstract: The present work reports a method for identification of Polish cochineal (Porphyrophora polonica L.) in historical fabrics by the use of high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array and tandem mass spectrometric detection with electrospray ionization (HPLC-DAD-ESI MS/MS). This hyphened technique allows detection and identification of 16 new minor colorants present in the discussed scale insect (including two previously observed by Wouters and Verhecken (Ann Soc Entomol Fr. 1989;25:393-410), but specified only as compounds of unknown structures) that do not occur (e.g., in American cochineal). The MS/MS experiments, complemented with UV-VIS data, enable identification of mono- and di-, C- and O-hexosides of kermesic and flavokermesic acids or their derivatives. The present paper introduces a fingerprint of color compounds present in Polish cochineal and defines them, particularly pp6 (ppI, O-hexoside of flavokermesic acid), as its markers allow distinguishing of Polish-cochineal reds from the American ones. Usefulness of the selected set of markers for identification of Polish cochineal has been demonstrated in the examination of textiles from the collection of the National Museum in Warsaw using the multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) method, originally elaborated on the basis of this study.
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Chemistry, Chair of Analytical Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Noakowskiego 3, 00-664, Warsaw, Poland. klech@ch.pw.edu.pl.
authors.forename: Katarzyna
authors.initials: K
authors.lastname: Lech
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Chemistry, Chair of Analytical Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Noakowskiego 3, 00-664, Warsaw, Poland.
authors.forename: Maciej
authors.initials: M
authors.lastname: Jarosz
keywords: Anthraquinones; HPLC; Historical textile analysis; Natural dyes; Polish cochineal; Tandem mass spectrometry