title: Forearm muscle oxidative capacity index predicts sport rock-climbing performance.
abstract: Rock-climbing performance is largely dependent on the endurance of the forearm flexors. Recently, it was reported that forearm flexor endurance in elite climbers is independent of the ability to regulate conduit artery (brachial) blood flow, suggesting that endurance is not primarily dependent on the ability of the brachial artery to deliver oxygen, but rather the ability of the muscle to perfuse and use oxygen, i.e., skeletal muscle oxidative capacity.
  
  
  OBJECTIVE
  The aim of the study was to determine whether an index of oxidative capacity in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) predicts the best sport climbing red-point grade within the last 6 months. Participants consisted of 46 sport climbers with a range of abilities.
  
  
  METHODS
  Using near-infrared spectroscopy, the oxidative capacity index of the FDP was assessed by calculating the half-time for tissue oxygen resaturation (O2HTR) following 3-5 min of ischemia.
  
  
  RESULTS
  Linear regression, adjusted for age, sex, BMI, and training experience, revealed a 1-s decrease in O2HTR was associated with an increase in red-point grade by 0.65 (95 % CI 0.35-0.94, Adj R (2)  = 0.53).
  
  
  CONCLUSIONS
  Considering a grade of 0.4 separated the top four competitors in the 2015 International Federation Sport Climbing World Cup, this finding suggests that forearm flexor oxidative capacity index is an important determinant of rock-climbing performance.
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Applied Sciences, School of Sport and Exercise, University of Gloucestershire, Oxstalls Campus, Gloucester, GL2 9HW, UK. dr.s.fryer@gmail.com.
authors.forename: Simon
authors.initials: S
authors.lastname: Fryer
authors.affiliation: School of Sport and Exercise, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand.
authors.forename: Lee
authors.initials: L
authors.lastname: Stoner
authors.affiliation: Faculty of Applied Sciences, School of Sport and Exercise, University of Gloucestershire, Oxstalls Campus, Gloucester, GL2 9HW, UK.
authors.forename: K
authors.initials: K
authors.lastname: Stone
authors.affiliation: School of Sport Performance and Outdoor Leadership, University of Derby, Buxton Campus, 1 Devonshire Road, Buxton, UK.
authors.forename: D
authors.initials: D
authors.lastname: Giles
authors.affiliation: School of Sport and Exercise, Edinburgh Napier University, Craiglockhart Campus, Edinburgh, EH14 1DJ, UK.
authors.forename: Joakim
authors.initials: J
authors.lastname: Sveen
authors.affiliation: Department of Physical Education, School of Education, Avda. República Saharaui sn, 11519 Puerto Real, Cádiz, Spain.
authors.forename: Inma
authors.initials: I
authors.lastname: Garrido
authors.affiliation: Department of Physical Education, School of Education, Avda. República Saharaui sn, 11519 Puerto Real, Cádiz, Spain.
authors.forename: Vanesa
authors.initials: V
authors.lastname: España-Romero
mesh_terms: D000328:Adult; D054874:Athletic Performance / Q000502:physiology*; D003198:Computer Simulation; D017079:Exercise Tolerance / Q000502:physiology*; D005260:Female; D005542:Forearm / Q000098:blood supply / Q000502:physiology*; D006801:Humans; D008297:Male; D008833:Microcirculation / Q000502:physiology; D008954:Models, Biological; D009051:Mountaineering / Q000502:physiology*; D018482:Muscle, Skeletal / Q000502:physiology*; D010084:Oxidation-Reduction; D010100:Oxygen / Q000378:metabolism*; D015203:Reproducibility of Results; D012680:Sensitivity and Specificity; D014018:Tissue Distribution
chemical_list: D010100:Oxygen
keywords: Microvascular adaptation; Near-infrared spectroscopy; Oxidative capacity