title: Characterisation of chemical components for identifying historical Chinese textile dyes by ultra high performance liquid chromatography - photodiode array - electrospray ionisation mass spectrometer.
abstract: This research makes the first attempt to apply Ultra High Performance Liquid Chromatography (UHPLC) coupled to both Photodiode Array detection (PDA) and Electrospray Ionisation Mass Spectrometer (ESI-MS) to the chemical characterisation of common textile dyes in ancient China. Three different extraction methods, respectively involving dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO)-oxalic acid, DMSO and hydrochloric acid, are unprecedentedly applied together to achieve an in-depth understanding of the chemical composition of these dyes. The first LC-PDA-MS database of the chemical composition of common dyes in ancient China has been established. The phenomena of esterification and isomerisation of the dye constituents of gallnut, gardenia and saffron, and the dye composition of acorn cup dyed silk are clarified for the first time. 6-Hydroxyrubiadin and its glycosides are first reported on a dyed sample with Rubia cordifolia from China. UHPLC-PDA-ESI-MS with a C18 BEH shield column shows significant advantages in the separation and identification of similar dye constituents, particularly in the cases of analysing pagoda bud and turmeric dyed sample extracts.
authors.affiliation: Centre for Textile Conservation and Technical Art History, School of Cultural and Creative Arts, University of Glasgow, Glasgow G12 8QH, United Kingdom. Electronic address: jinghan8706@hotmail.com.
authors.forename: Jing
authors.initials: J
authors.lastname: Han
authors.affiliation: Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands, Hobbemastraat 22, 1071 ZC Amsterdam, The Netherlands. Electronic address: Jantien.wanrooij@gmail.com.
authors.forename: Jantien
authors.initials: J
authors.lastname: Wanrooij
authors.affiliation: Cultural Heritage Agency of the Netherlands, Hobbemastraat 22, 1071 ZC Amsterdam, The Netherlands; University of Amsterdam, Conservation and Restoration of Cultural Heritage, Johannes Vermeerplein 1, 1071 DV Amsterdam, The Netherlands. Electronic address: M.R.vanbommel@uva.nl.
authors.forename: Maarten
authors.initials: M
authors.lastname: van Bommel
authors.affiliation: Centre for Textile Conservation and Technical Art History, School of Cultural and Creative Arts, University of Glasgow, Glasgow G12 8QH, United Kingdom. Electronic address: anita.quye@glasgow.ac.uk.
authors.forename: Anita
authors.initials: A
authors.lastname: Quye
mesh_terms: D002623:Chemistry Techniques, Analytical / Q000379:methods*; D002681:China; D002851:Chromatography, High Pressure Liquid; D004396:Coloring Agents / Q000032:analysis* / Q000737:chemistry*; D021241:Spectrometry, Mass, Electrospray Ionization; D013784:Textiles / Q000032:analysis*
chemical_list: D004396:Coloring Agents
keywords: Cultural heritage; Dye components; Extraction methods; Historical Chinese dyestuffs; Textiles; UHPLC-PDA-ESI–MS