Measurement of cytotoxicity and irritancy potential of sugar-based surfactants on skin-related 3D models.
Sugar-based surfactants present surface-active properties and relatively low cytotoxicity. They are often considered as safe alternatives to currently used surfactants in cosmetic industries. In this study, four sugar-based surfactants, each with an eight carbon alkyl chain bound to a glucose or a maltose headgroup through an amide linkage, were synthesized and compared to two standard surfactants. The cytotoxic and irritant effects of surfactants were evaluated using two biologically relevant models: 3D dermal model (mouse fibroblasts embedded in collagen gel) and reconstituted human epidermis (RHE, multi-layered human keratinocytes). Results show that three synthesized surfactants possess lower cytotoxicity compared to standard surfactants as demonstrated in the 3D dermal model. Moreover, the IC50s of surfactants against the 3D dermal model are higher than IC50s obtained with the 2D dermal model (monolayer mouse fibroblasts). Both synthesized and standard surfactants show no irritant effects after 48h of topical application on RHE. Throughout the study, we demonstrate the difficulty to link the physico-chemical properties of surfactants and their cytotoxicity in complex models. More importantly, our data suggest that, prior to in vivo tests, a complete understanding of surfactant cytotoxicity or irritancy potential requires a combination of cellular and tissue models.
Sorbonne Universités, Université de Technologie de Compiègne, UMR CNRS 7338 BMBI, Rue du Dr Schweitzer, 60200 Compiègne, France; Sorbonne Universités, Université de Technologie de Compiègne, EA TIMR 4297, Rue du Dr Schweitzer, 60200 Compiègne, France.
Biao
B
Lu
Université de Picardie Jules Verne, LG2A, CNRS UMR 7378, Institut de Chimie de Picardie CNRS FR 3085, 33 rue Saint Leu, 80039 Amiens Cedex, France.
Yong
Y
Miao
Sorbonne Universités, Université de Technologie de Compiègne, UMR CNRS 7338 BMBI, Rue du Dr Schweitzer, 60200 Compiègne, France.
Pascale
P
Vigneron
Université de Picardie Jules Verne, LG2A, CNRS UMR 7378, Institut de Chimie de Picardie CNRS FR 3085, 33 rue Saint Leu, 80039 Amiens Cedex, France.
Vincent
V
Chagnault
Université de Picardie Jules Verne, LG2A, CNRS UMR 7378, Institut de Chimie de Picardie CNRS FR 3085, 33 rue Saint Leu, 80039 Amiens Cedex, France.
Eric
E
Grand
Université de Picardie Jules Verne, LG2A, CNRS UMR 7378, Institut de Chimie de Picardie CNRS FR 3085, 33 rue Saint Leu, 80039 Amiens Cedex, France.
Anne
A
Wadouachi
Université de Picardie Jules Verne, LG2A, CNRS UMR 7378, Institut de Chimie de Picardie CNRS FR 3085, 33 rue Saint Leu, 80039 Amiens Cedex, France.
Denis
D
Postel
Sorbonne Universités, Université de Technologie de Compiègne, EA TIMR 4297, Rue du Dr Schweitzer, 60200 Compiègne, France.
Isabelle
I
Pezron
Sorbonne Universités, Université de Technologie de Compiègne, UMR CNRS 7338 BMBI, Rue du Dr Schweitzer, 60200 Compiègne, France; Tufts University, Department of Oral and Maxillofacial Pathology, School of Dental Medicine, Boston, MA, United States.
Christophe
C
Egles
Sorbonne Universités, Université de Technologie de Compiègne, UMR CNRS 7338 BMBI, Rue du Dr Schweitzer, 60200 Compiègne, France. Electronic address: muriel.vayssade@utc.fr.
Muriel
M
Vayssade
D000577:Amides / Q000633:toxicity*; D000826:Animal Testing Alternatives; D000818:Animals; D002460:Cell Line; D002470:Cell Survival / Q000187:drug effects; D003094:Collagen; D005347:Fibroblasts / Q000187:drug effects; D005947:Glucose / Q000737:chemistry*; D006801:Humans; D007509:Irritants / Q000633:toxicity*; D015603:Keratinocytes / Q000187:drug effects; D008320:Maltose / Q000737:chemistry*; D051379:Mice; D008954:Models, Biological; D012867:Skin / Q000187:drug effects*; D013501:Surface-Active Agents / Q000633:toxicity*
D000577:Amides; D007509:Irritants; D013501:Surface-Active Agents; D008320:Maltose; D003094:Collagen; D005947:Glucose
Cosmetic products testing; Cytotoxicity; Dermal equivalents; Irritancy screening; Reconstituted human epidermis; Sugar-based surfactants