title: Hydroxycinnamic Acids and Their Derivatives: Cosmeceutical Significance, Challenges and Future Perspectives, a Review.
abstract: Bioactive compounds from natural sources, due to their widely-recognized benefits, have been exploited as cosmeceutical ingredients. Among them, phenolic acids emerge with a very interesting potential. In this context, this review analyzes hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives as multifunctional ingredients for topical application, as well as the limitations associated with their use in cosmetic formulations. Hydroxycinnamic acids and their derivatives display antioxidant, anti-collagenase, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as ultraviolet (UV) protective effects, suggesting that they can be exploited as anti-aging and anti-inflammatory agents, preservatives and hyperpigmentation-correcting ingredients. Due to their poor stability, easy degradation and oxidation, microencapsulation techniques have been employed for topical application, preventing them from degradation and enabling a sustained release. Based on the above findings, hydroxycinnamic acids present high cosmetic potential, but studies addressing the validation of their benefits in cosmetic formulations are still scarce. Furthermore, studies dealing with skin permeation are scarcely available and need to be conducted in order to predict the topical bioavailability of these compounds after application.
authors.affiliation: Mountain Research Centre (CIMO), ESA, Polytechnic Institute of Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 1172, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal. barreiro@ipb.pt.|Grupo de Investigación en Polifenoles (GIP), Unidad de Nutrición y Bromatología, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Salamanca, Campus Miguel de Unamuno, 37007 Salamanca, Spain. barreiro@ipb.pt.|Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering (LSRE), Associate Laboratory LSRE/LCM, Polytechnic Institute of Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 1134, 5301-857 Bragança, Portugal. barreiro@ipb.pt.
authors.forename: Oludemi
authors.initials: O
authors.lastname: Taofiq
authors.affiliation: Grupo de Investigación en Polifenoles (GIP), Unidad de Nutrición y Bromatología, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Salamanca, Campus Miguel de Unamuno, 37007 Salamanca, Spain. paramas@usal.es.
authors.forename: Ana M
authors.initials: AM
authors.lastname: González-Paramás
authors.affiliation: Laboratory of Separation and Reaction Engineering (LSRE), Associate Laboratory LSRE/LCM, Polytechnic Institute of Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 1134, 5301-857 Bragança, Portugal. barreiro@ipb.pt.
authors.forename: Maria Filomena
authors.initials: MF
authors.lastname: Barreiro
authors.affiliation: Mountain Research Centre (CIMO), ESA, Polytechnic Institute of Bragança, Campus de Santa Apolónia, 1172, 5300-253 Bragança, Portugal. iferreira@ipb.pt.
authors.forename: Isabel C F R
authors.initials: IC
authors.lastname: Ferreira
mesh_terms: D000287:Administration, Topical; D000818:Animals; D000890:Anti-Infective Agents / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000737:chemistry / Q000378:metabolism; D000893:Anti-Inflammatory Agents / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000737:chemistry / Q000378:metabolism; D000975:Antioxidants / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000737:chemistry / Q000378:metabolism; D001688:Biological Products / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000737:chemistry; D000068937:Cosmeceuticals / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000737:chemistry; D003358:Cosmetics; D003373:Coumaric Acids / Q000008:administration & dosage / Q000737:chemistry* / Q000378:metabolism; D004339:Drug Compounding; D006801:Humans; D010539:Permeability; D012867:Skin / Q000378:metabolism
chemical_list: D000890:Anti-Infective Agents; D000893:Anti-Inflammatory Agents; D000975:Antioxidants; D001688:Biological Products; D000068937:Cosmeceuticals; D003358:Cosmetics; D003373:Coumaric Acids
keywords: cosmetics; hydroxycinnamic acids; microencapsulation; skin care